Four weeks in the USA?…. OK if we must

24.09.16
After a long but uneventful flight where we discovered Greenland from the air we landed in the US to the usual queues at immigration. We stayed at the Handlery Union Square hotel a huge sprawling hotel which is in a great location for shopping and the cable cars.

Cable Car San Francisco

Our first impression of San Francisco was dirty, smelly with lot of rough sleepers. Having said that the city grew on us but still a shame to see so many people with mental health issues out on the streets. We will be coming back though.

25.09.16
With breakfast included we made the most of it and ate heartily before the first day’s exploring. The cheapest way to get around is on public transport and we bought 3 day Muni passes for $31 each. With the cable cars being $7 for a single journey or $20 a day, we soon got our money’s worth.
Fisherman’s Wharf was just as the guide books said and very touristy but a great place to people watch which we did over a nice lunch at Alioto. We soon realised that the advertised prices didn’t always include the local tax and tips. We had booked a night trip to Alcatraz before we left the UK and it is well worth doing. The cost of the trip ($40 per adult) included return boat trip and audio tour and the bonus of the night tour is you get to see San Francisco and all its lights on the return boat trip.

Alcatraz

26.09.16
A bit of a later start but paid for the lie-in with a 25 minute wait for breakfast. The hotel was very close to the end of one of the cable car lines but there was always a really long queue, so we followed the advice in the guide book to walk to the next stop where the queue was inevitably shorter.

 

Bike Ride Day

Today was to be a cycling day. From the sea front we hired a couple of bikes from Blazing Saddles to ride across the Golden Gate Bridge. Having paid our money we were given a very quick talk about the bike and route and off we went…along with a lot of others from several different companies. At times the bridge was a little congested with both riders and people on foot. Some were totally unaware of their surroundings and you have to keep your eye out for sure.
Before we crossed the bridge we stopped for coffee and cake at the Warming Hut. Once over the bridge we carried on to Sausalito, a quaint little seaside town. Lunch, shopping and a large serving of local ice cream killed any ideas of cycling back but luckily plenty of ferries run across the Bay so there was an easy option back to get back the city.
The cycle hire cost $36 each with $5 insurance and $10 ferry fees on top (shorter trips can be booked and paid for by the hour). If you decide to cycle back the ferry fees will be refunded. The ferry is really well getting hundreds of bikes on very slickly.
27.09.16
Earlier start to check out and pick up the hire car…. Not just any hire car it was a Ford Mustang Cabriolet. A beautiful car. Maybe I should provide some background to this trip. It is June’s ‘special’ birthday this year and she always wanted to be on a Harley Davidson cruising down the Pacific Coast Highway. However the stumbling block was neither of us can’t ride bikes! However Bob did arrange a trip on a Harley a couple of years ago in the Warwickshire countryside with the help of a mate…well done Rod. With this under her belt she was happy with a convertible for Highway 1.
After our first Uber ride to National Car Hire and a quick checkout we were on our way towards the night’s stop at Fernwood Resort a couple of hours south of San Francisco along Highway 1. This of course included a few stops for photos and a brief shop before a couple of nights glamping in amongst the redwoods. The riverside site takes tents, motorhomes and caravans and on the site there were a few permanent residents. It also has a bar and restaurant and breakfast stuff and fresh coffee can be picked up at the site shop. The glamping option gave a us a proper double bed, heater, outside chairs, firepit and two clean bathrooms shared between the three glamping tents all of which had parking.

Our Adventure Tent

28.09.16
We decided to head south further along the Big Sur but unfortunately lots of the park areas were closed due to fires. It’s a fantastic road to drive, all twists and turns dipping in and out of the banks of coastal mist which led to endless photo opportunities.
We got as far south as Elephant Seal Beach (the name is a big clue as to what you can see there!), and stopped at Ragged Point Inn for the obligatory coffee break in both directions. The Nepenthe Café was a worthy recommendation for the final coffee stop with its terraces and their stunning views of the coast. We caught a brief glimpse of the McWay Falls ($10 entry fee) as the sea mist cleared for a few minutes and stopped off at Pfeiffer Beach ($10 entry fee) to see the purple sand…albeit you had to dig for it.
Evening meal at Fernwood again which is a great place to stay if a little noisy at times. The Adventure Tents are cleaned daily and the towels are changed. Certainly different and great for a couple of nights!

29.09.16
Another early start as we left Fernwood and headed back north to Carmel and then Monterey. We took the 17 mile drive around the Pebble Beach peninsula. $10 to see the big houses but a very scenic coastal drive.

We didn’t really stop in Carmel but both really liked Monterey which although obviously catering for tourists, it wasn’t too tacky. Lunch at Sly McFly and June had a sneaky little Margarita.
Off then to Marina and the Sanctuary Beach Resort…our one night of full on luxury where we were driven to our room on a golf cart. The beach was right outside our windows… really stunning and a great sunset, albeit a little on the cold side in late September! A late email told us the hotel’s restaurant was closed for refurbishment but we found a nice little Vietnamese that hit the spot in a local strip mall.


30.09.16
Busy day! We felt like we were sneaking out as we tried to avoid the over helpful staff – neither of us is particularly comfy with top end hotels. Having dropped off the car at San Francisco Airport, it was then the air train to the terminal where we grabbed our second Uber to take us to Fremont on the other side of the Bay to pick up the RV. Arrived a little early but the staff at Cruise America could not have been more helpful and we managed to get off to a quick start. First impressions of the RV was it was a little ‘willowy’ but Bob soon got used to it. Stopped off at a nearby Walmart, much more of them later, to stock up with ‘stuff’ (as regular motorhomers we just forgot the basics that we always have on board…took a bit of thinking). We had prebooked the personal kits so had towels and bedding and the kitchen equipment so we could eat and drink!
With road works and a few detours the total time from Walmart to Yosemite was 6 hours but we had prebooked the campsite so were able to pull straight on to our allocated pitch. We arrived in the dark and had no idea to what was out there for us to wake up to…..

Our home for 3 weeks

01.10.16
Woke to a neighbour starting their generator up at 7.00. Most sites that allow generators post the hours that you can run them. Typically 7.00 – 9.00 and again 16.00 – 20.00. Our RV package came with unlimited generator use and although we didn’t expect to use it, it did come in handy a few times.
We opened the van up to find ourselves surrounded by huge pine trees, clear blue skies and lots of rock faces. We walked into Yosemite Village and totally gob smacked with the scenery. There was lots and lots of ‘upness’. Very majestic and maybe one or two photos taken!
We took the Valley Loop Tour which is on the back of a trailer and guided by a park ranger. It was a really good orientation trip, costing only $25 each and lasting 2 hours. Not something we’d normally do but glad we did and would thoroughly recommend.

Yosemite

We used the free shuttles to get around for the rest of the day, visiting the really well stocked Village Store. More fresh food that Walmart! Back to the van where we started our generator to charge all the tech.
The campsite we used was Upper Pines, $26 a night with a bus stop just outside the front gate. We did book as soon as the pitches were released though. They are up for grabs on the US National Parks website 3 months in advance.
02.10.16
Early shuttle through the valley to the trail head for Glacier Point via the 4 mile trail, which is actually 4.8 miles each way although we had planned to come down via a different route. The views from the trail are stunning and we both welcomed the stops to take photos as the track is quite steep.

Glacier Point

At the top Glacier Point gives views to die for and worth every aching muscle (driving and shuttle options are available for those less inclined to walk!).

Glacier Point

After a #clewleystopsforcoffee at the café at the top, we started our way back down via the Panorama Trail. Not quite so stunning views, still beautiful though but definitely the harder route. Total walking time 5 hours (double that for the whole day) with 15 miles under our boots including 4000 feet of ascent! Arrived back in the van in the dark, totally exhausted yet feeling exhilarated at what we had accomplished.
Despite thinking he was prepared for anything, on the way down Bob felt outkitted when we passed a guy with an ice axe on his rucksack. Not a drop of snow in sight or forecast.
03.11.16
As we left Yosemite we bought an Annual National Parks pass for $80 which seems a lot to pay out but it would cover us for all the national (not state) parks we intended to visit and with each park costing around $25/30 it would pay for itself in a couple of days.
It was overcast and raining slightly as we drove to Kings Canyon and Sequoia to see the really big redwoods; firstly the General Grant tree and then along the General’s Highway to the General Sherman. The size of these trees needs to be seen to be believed but Bob was able to stand fully upright in the trunk of a fallen tree.

June does like a tree

Vans greater than 25ft long are not allowed to exit the park through the southern gate due to the gradient and twisty road so we decided to find a campsite in the Sequoia NP. Only one seemed to be open which was Lodgepole but it turned out to be a good choice! Hundreds of places, self service check in (something we’d get used – find an empty pitch and drop your money in a safe box), a cafe and a laundry and all for $22. The campsite is at 6,720 ft and with no light pollution we were afforded stunning views of the clear night sky.

04.11.16
Vegas bound!
A long boring driving day (446 miles) although we did go through part of the Mojave Desert and past the Andrews Airforce Base. Having spent the previous few days in the mountains, this was a total contrast.
We had three nights booked at the Stratosphere Hotel which has a car park for oversized vehicles so the RV would be fine for a couple of days. Staying on the Strip was just something that had to be done so after a quick dinner in Dennys (free wifi!) there was time for a walk to see the sights closest to the hotel. A lot of the Strip is being rebuilt so there are several huge empty plots.

05.11.16
One of a few very early starts of this trip as we were being picked up by limo at 5.30am for our helicopter trip to the Grand Canyon. A stretch limo is not our usual style but totally in keeping with being in Vegas!
The helicopter sat six passengers and we were lucky enough to get the front seats on the way out. We left around 7am, flew over Las Vegas, the Hoover Dam and Lake Mead before landing in the Canyon for breakfast. Words cannot describe the stunning views of the Canyon as the sun was rising. The area where we landed for breakfast was a little overcrowded once an another half dozen helicopters had arrived but it was still one of the most awe-inspiring places for our little picnic breakfast. We used Sundance Helicopters and although it was an expensive morning out it was worth every penny.

Single engine too! Bob is used to having a second engine as back-up

Having got back to the hotel by 10am, we had plenty of time for shopping and with outlet malls at either end of Las Vegas Boulevard we had plenty of choice too. We used the buses to get around with a 24 hour pass costing $8 per adult. The Deuce service runs up and down the Strip but the SDK also goes to the northern mall.
After a quick afternoon nap and cocktails from the viewing deck of the Stratosphere it was back on the bus to the far end of town to see all the hotels we had missed the night before. Dinner at the Harley Davidson Restaurant – yes there is a recurring theme on this trip!

06.10.16
Action day!
Part of the reason for staying at the Stratosphere was so Bob could do the jump off the top of it and today was the day. An 855Ft drop attached to a couple of ropes and it’s all over in seconds! $120 or $100 to hotel residents.
From there we headed downtown to the Fremont Street area which we decide is the US equivalent of Blackpool. The purpose of this visit is to do the Zoom zip wire which runs the full length of the arcade. You are strapped in to a harness Superman style and emerge from a slot machine to fly across the heads of the crowds shopping below. Great fun and $40 for an afternoon “flight”.

Great fun

Then spent a couple of hours at “Whiskey Licker” drinking cocktails whilst listening to an amazing busker who even did “You Make Me Feel Brand New” for us.

Dinner that night was at Lotus of Siam, a great Thai restaurant off the Strip which was recommended by one of June’s friends. The food was great and it’s obviously a popular place as we hadn’t made a reservation and had to wait a while, albeit sat at the bar!

 

07.10.16

Left the big city lights of Vegas and drove a short distance to spend the day with friends in Boulder City. Tony took us out kayaking on the Colorado River and as well a great day out on the water, Tony also gave us some of the history of the river. At one point we got out to walk on the “Catwalk”, one of the original gaugers’ trails from when they were first surveying the river. It was then back to join Marge for an early dinner and a quick tour of the City including a building with a mural painted by Tony. Having seen the Hoover Dam from the helicopter, today we got to drive across it and also view it closer up from the new bridge built across the river. Also saw the “Concrete Critters” (literally as the name suggests, statues of concrete animals!) and the long-horned sheep who live wild on the edge of the city.

 

Kayaking on the Colorado
Kayaking on the Colorado

A fantastic day with two of the most hospitable and welcoming people you could ever meet. Tony has boundless energy and even in his late 70s (we think) he still participates in triathlons and indeed had one the following day.

Spent the night at Canyon Trail RV Park where we were dwarfed by the full size rigs you could only find the America and hook-ups to the mains water and sewers. $45 per night with all the facilities except decent wifi.

08.10.16

Grand Canyon bound but all via main rounds so no exciting driving! Stocked up on supplies at Safeway where it’s worth getting their membership card (don’t need to be resident) as we saved ovre $35 at the till. Also picked up fuel – we’ve noticed the full prices vary widely and we’d seen as high as $3.29 (at this point) and as low as $2.09 per gallon. Also worth noting that some places charge less for cash.

We hadn’t realised it was a three day weekend and hadn’t booked a campsite so we arrived at the entrance to the Grand Canyon to find all the campsites full. We spoke to a ranger who advised that whilst you cannot “boondock” (wild camp to us Brits) in the National Park you can do so in the surrounding forest. We still went into the Park to get out bearings and stopped briefly at Mather Point to watch the lightning bolts across the Canyon as a rainstorm set in.

We found a spot to camp just off the main road to the Grand Canyon (lat: 35.9791, long: 112.1301) and not too high tonight at around 2000m.

Total driving today: 244miles

09/10/16

An easy start as we head straight to Desert View Campsite within the Grand Canyon National Park in the hope of grabbing a pitch as people leave. The plan worked as there are plenty of empty spaces at 10am although it does fill up as the day goes on. Another great little site at $12 per night but no facilities other than toilets (water filling, grey waste dump and toilet emptying facilitites can be found at the main campground and are open to non-residents).

Watchtower Campsite
Watchtower Campsite

We wondered down to the Canyon Rim and the Watchtower – so many photo opportunities. A quick scoot around the souvenier shop/supermarket and it was back to the van for a relaxing afternoon although as we got back we found a rather large elk grazing by the van!

Watching the sun go down later over the Canyon is a must and we get our seats early to enjoy the sunset with a beer in hand. We bought wood for a campfire (all the sites provide fire pits) but as tomorrow will be an early start we keep the wood for another night.

10/10/16

Another must do – watching the sun rise so it’s up at 5.45am to get to Navajo Point. We try to leave the campsite as quietly as possible but that never works and at least we weren’t the only ones with the idea to start early. Got to see the sunrise just before the obligatory influx of Chinese tourists arrived all jostling to get the best photo!

Sunrise Over the Grand Canyon
Sunrise Over the Grand Canyon

We stopped at several viewpoints along the way to the Visitor’s Centre to pick up the shuttle bus to the Bright Angel Trailhead but before that it’s breakfast in the car park. We’ve learned that it’s often best to get to a car park early to be assured of a RV parking place which are often used by cars who can’t be bothered to drive round for a space.

Today we are walking down into the Canyon via the Bright Angel Trail. We’re not going all the way to the bottom but to one of the resting places three miles along the Trail and about 600m down from the rim. That does mean it’s another three miles back up again but it’s not too difficult and the trail is quite busy.

Bright Angel Trail
Bright Angel Trail

A quick shower in the car park (in the van of course!) before heading to the Camping Services area to fill the water tank and empty the grey and black tanks.

11/10/16

Desert View to Page – a fairly non-eventful few hours on the road. We picked up fuel and gas in Cameron and then straight to Walmart in Page. Topped up supplies and confirmed it was OK to overnight in the car park. Turns out we weren’t the only ones with that idea as there were at least a dozen vans parked up by the time darkness fell.

We spent the afternoon around Lake Powell – the Glen Canyon Dam, a few hours by the beach and then up to Antelope Point.

Lake Powell
Lake Powell

A couple thoughts so far on the trip:

  • Start early to be on the campsite by mid-afternoon as even in mid-October sites were full by 4pm

  • Don’t underestimate travel times – speed limits are lower than the UK and winding roads add time too

12/10/16

Another 5.30am start and this time to get to Horseshoe Bend for the sunrise and we weren’t the first there by any means. Another magical moment!

Horse Shoe Bend Page
Horse Shoe Bend Page
Horse Shoe Bend Page
Horse Shoe Bend Page

Breakfast in the car park to prepare for the long drive to Moab. We stopped in Monument Valley but as most of the main rock features can be seen for the road we didn’t do any of the tours. We drove through numerous non-descript towns on the 191 and had lunch overlooking Church Rock.

We arrived in Moab to find that it stretches for miles along the main road and we quickly lose count of the number of massive RV sites. We finally settle on Sliprock on the edge of the town. It’s $39+tax for the night but it’s a well equipped site and has laundry facilities. If you like outdoor sports Moab is the place for you as you could find pretty much anything here!

13/10/16

Today’s plan – pop into the National Parks at Arches and Canyonlands before heading towards Brice. Ha!!!

OK a slightly later start as we didn’t take into account the time change from Pacific to Central and a quick FaceTime with Amy back in the UK, so we finally got to Arches about 10am. More gob-smacking moments which neither of us expected and we basically ended up spending the entire day there. We then drove 50miles or so to find a campsite in the Canyonlands area but they were all full so we ended up back in Moab on the same campsite as yesterday but with no choice other than a fully serviced (ie mains water and sewer again) pitch at $62.62, including tax. We therefore plugged in and charged everything we could!

The Arches National Park
The Arches National Park
The Arches National Park
The Arches National Park

14/10/16

Back on the early starts so on the road by 8.30am. First stop was Dead Horse Point State Park (not covered by National Parks ticket so $10 entry) for stunning views over the Colorado River and gorge.

Onto Canyonlands where we used the same approach as we did at Arches – take every right turn and viewpoint to see everything. Totally different scenery here but equally as breathtaking.

Dead Horse State Park
Dead Horse State Park

Then hit the road again for a few hours to find a camping spot in the Dixie National Forest. We tried a couple of campsites but they were either full or closed so we ended up wild camping in the trees just off the 12. The scenery had continued to be amazing throughout the whole drive and each tunr bought different views and geology – some of the strangest we had seen. En route we passed through Capitol Reef National Park which is well worth doing of time allows.

15/10/16

We continued our drive along route 12 from Dixie National Forest to Cedar City via Bryce. The scenery continued to be stunning, so much so that when we found a geological map of the route a few days later we just had to buy it!

Safe to say we had one of out most unique driving moments ever as we drove along the top of a ridge around Escalante with sheer drops on either side!

We arrived in Bryce to discover more jaw-dropping yet different geological features as we walked amongst the “hoo doos”.

Bryce Canyon
Bryce Canyon

Spent most of the day at reasonable altitude – 9600ft in the Dixie Forest and Bryce at around 8000ft. Tonight’s choice of accomodation was another Walmart car park in Cedar City. We wondered when we arrived why some motorhomes were parked across blocks of spaces rather than in them but as the night progressed and the wind picked up we understood the reason why as a couple of times it felt like we would topple over! We obviously should have followed the local experts lead and parked nose on into the wind.

16/10/16

Another early start to get to Zion National Park and walk up to Angel’s Landing before it gets too hot although both of us were shattered after being battered by the wind the previous night!

We reached Zion at about 8.30am and the park was already filling up so we headed straight to the shuttle to the trailhead. It ws definitely the best decision to go early as a lot of the trail was in the shade at that point and not as busy as when we came down. We did the chain section to make it to the top without any problems but why do they make all the steps for people with long legs (June not being blessed with them!). The views from the top were as spectacular as we expected!

Angels Landing
Angels Landing

We checked into the Watchman campsite ($30 with electric) but unfortunately there was no space for a second night although we had the option to queue from around 7am for a pitch at the next door campsite the following morning but with no guarantee of a spot. So one night it was to be and after a short nap and some retail therapy we finally had our campfire.

Angels Landing
Angels Landing

17/10/16

With no campsite in Zion National Park for tonight we moved the van to the RV carpark early to ensure a parking place and had a leisurely breakfast there.

We took the Park Shuttle Bus to the end of its route for our walk along the Narrows. We normally try to keep our boots dry when walking so it was a bit strange today to walk straight into the river wearing them. A fun walk and boots aside we managed to stay dry and we then headed back to Zion Lodge to do the Emerald Pools trail. Probably because it was the end of the summer but the pools certainly weren’t emerald coloured – more like a sludge green!

The Narrows
The Narrows

We left Zion NP to spend the night a short distance away at Zion River Resort, another huge campsite. $55 inclusive for a fully serviced pitch and pretty good wifi.

18/10/16

A driving day going from Zion to Death Valley covering four states – Utah, Arizona, Nevada and California, and mostly on highways for a distance of around 300 miles.

Valley of Fire
Valley of Fire

We broke the day up with a visit to the Valley of Fire State Park (entrance $10) where we saw more amazing sandstone features and some petroglyphs. We had booked into a campsite in Beatty but decided to wild camp at a derelict RV site on the way to Death Valley. It was a good choice being surrounded by nothing and nobody and with a clear sky the Milky Way was on full view.

Valley of Fire
Valley of Fire
Wild camp at a derelict RV site on the way to Death Valley
Wild camp at a derelict RV site on the way to Death Valley

19/10/16

Before entering Death Valley we went to Dante’s Peak for an overview of the area and then to Zabriskie Point. It was then straight to Furnace Creek to check out the campsite options (plenty) before going to the Ubehebe Crater (extinct volcano) where we had an interesting conversation with an American couple regarding the upcoming election. Their comment was that it was a choice of a criminal (Clinton) or a joker (Trump). Well as we know the latter triumphed and time will tell what his legacy will be.

Ubehebe Crater
Ubehebe Crater

We explored the rest of the Valley via the Sand Dunes and Badwater Basin which is the lowest point at 282ft below sea level.

Badwater Basin
Badwater Basin

We camped at Sunset campsite just across the road from the Furnace Creek village. $14 per night but no facilities other than water filling and waste dumping (all we really needed).

A note re fuel in Death Valley – fuel in Furnace Creek was $3.89 per gallon but a few miles away in Stovepipe Wells is was “only” $2.93. It was quite a distance though before we found another garage.

20/10/16

And so the journey back to San Francisco starts but in true Clewley style it will not be the quickest. most direct route! We always have an “old-fashioned” paper map open alongside Tomtom and through this we found a gem of an area around Lake Isabella. We had lunch by the lake and drove another “wiggly” road until we could avoid the freeway no longer! Tonight’s destination is another Walmart car park but for the first time we didn’t feel comfortable at out first stop so we moved on to another, larger store.

Lake Isabella
Lake Isabella

21/10/16

A relatively short drive (two hours) to our final campsite so before leaving it was into Walmart for some shopping as an extra bag was required to pack everything in (luckily we had upgraded coming home so had extra luggage allowance!). In a bid to delay the big cleaning the session (van was supposed to go back clean to avoid an extra charge and it was definitely going back cleaner than when we collected it!) it was another detour via Bob’s favourite US store – “Bass Pro Shop”. For a UK person, these shops have to be seen to be believed (last time we were here the girls were looking at child size pink shotguns!) but only clothing bought.

The final stop was at the Alameda Fairgrounds RV Site and we arrived only to find a dog show in full process! So not only were we surrounded by huge RVs but these ones all had the biggest cages around them for the pampered pooches.

This was possibly the worst site of the trip ($40 fully serviced) but it served its purpose and allowed us to clean the van and empty all the tanks.

22/10/16

A leisurely start as it was only 30 minutes or so to the Cruise America depot so plenty of time to fill the fuel and gas tanks (the latter at U-Haul) and give the van the final once-over before dropping it back. A smooth handover with only a cursory check and it was then off to the airport for a long wait for the flight – we got there before midday although the flight wasn’t until 19.15 but unfortunately the return time for the van was before 11am and we couldn’t really go into San Fransisco with all the luggage.

June at the helm
June at the helm

 

Post trip thoughts:

To come…

A weekend in a Tree

When your anniversary falls on a weekend you have to make the most of it I think….

So October 2015 I started planning for May 2016..  I wanted to find something different and special.  I found a Tree House on the East Sussex / Kent that looked stunning and it didn’t let us down.

All booked, June had no idea at all where we were going.  I threw in a few red herrings like ‘we need sleeping bags’ etc to throw her off any scent she may have picked up.  I even packed the sleeping bags in the car as I left for a training course the week before.

Picking June up from the station she still was totally unaware of the Tree House.

The Tree House
The Tree House
The Tree House
The Tree House

It was a stunning location.  Complete with king size bed, en suite, heating and even a breakfast hamper.  Everything I had hoped and more.

The next day we decided to use our National Trust membership and visit a couple of nearby.  First on the list was Scotney Castle….  Not a bad pad

Scotney Castle

Scotney Castle

Scotney Castle
Scotney Castle

From there we moved on to Bodiam Castle….  A slightly better pad albeit a lot of roof was missing 🙂

Bodiam Castle
Bodiam Castle
Bodiam Castle
Bodiam Castle

DSC_9855 DSC_9710

A few days in Marracech 

As we may have mentioned once or twice before, we love Morocco and we love Marakech! So when looking for a few days away it wasn’t difficult decision as to where to go and then to return to a Riad we have used before.

Dar Rocmarra is ideally located inside the medina walls and is a real gem – a warm welcome always awaits. The accommodation is wonderful and, if you decide to eat in once or twice (which you must), the food is second to none.

An early doors EasyJet out from Gatwick allowed us to be sat in the Riad by midday talking to Jamila ahead of a home-cooked lunch – well worth the early start!

Our Room
Our Room

After grabbing a few minutes sleep we wandered into the souks and the main square. Jemaa el Fna is a hive of activity day or night. Daytime sees stalls ranging from dentistry to orange juice while the evening brings out the food stalls and story tellers.

Stall 97
Stall 97

The first night though we ate at a restaurant at the side of the square and just absorbed the atmosphere. It was the first time back for Amy and Chloe since the Motorhome trip of 2009.

As we wandered about the main square, Jemaa el Fna, June pointed out Michael Portillo walking away from us. For those that don’t know, he has a TV programme where he travels by rail around the world using Bradshaws guide. The fact that he had an old book in his hand should have given us a clue…. However it wasn’t until Bob went up to him and started chatting that it dawned on him that they were filming ….. So when Michael’s programme goes to Morocco keep and eye out for a 6’4″ geezer stalking the star of the show!

The trip was always going to be a shopping fest for the girls but we also managed to get a couple of day trips in too.

The first was to Cascade d’Ouzoud. These stunning waterfalls at about 2 1/2 hours drive away from the city.  The car and driver was arranged by Jamila and cost €150.  This was for the driver and car for the whole day.

The falls from the Top
The falls from the Top
Just stunning
Just stunning

Thursday had been inked in the diary as a shopping day and the girls have been saving for months. Lots of bargains bought so everyone happy all round.. While walking to yet another shop one teenage lad went up to Bob and asked if he spoke French…. Bob, in his best French accent said a little. The lad then spoke in English…. Obviously Bob’s French wasn’t too convincing… He asked for an introduction to the girls (previous offers having been for camels so this was a different approach!) as he liked them although clearly he didn’t like them that much as he’d gone as we left the shop.

Our second excursion was to Essaouira and again the cost was €150 for the day for the car and driver with journey time being around 2.5-3 hours from Marrakech.  Chloe had asked to visit this pretty seaside town as she remembered it from 2009 and wanted to recreate a photo we took then at the fort.

 

2009
2009
2016
2016

Mission accomplished it was time for lunch followed by a stroll along the beach and before leaving, the Moroccan equivalent of #clewleystopsforcoffee…..#clewleystopsforminttea !!!

On the Beach
On the Beach

 

 

We have been looking for a painting to hang in our bedroom for ages and finally found one but it was twice the size we needed. The guy in the shop ran off, having asked the size, and returned a minute or two later with a smaller version. The price started at 1400 Dirham but was soon, maybe too soon, brought down to 1000 Dirham although he did throw in a free scarf for June.  Price didn’t matter so much though as we wanted something that meant something to us and this was it.

Bedroom Picture
Bedroom Picture

Soaking up the festive spirit in Berlin

Another early Easyjet departure but a smooth flight, a short train ride and we were in our hotel in Berlin by lunchtime.  Having hoped for real Winter weather we were a little disappointed to  find Berlin was experiencing the same mild grey days as London.  Still it was dry so no complaints really especially as it stayed that way for the three days we there.

After being allowed to check in early it was off to get our bearings.  We were staying at the Ibis Hotel Potsdamer Platz which was picked in line with our standard requirements – free wifi, location and price.  The room was basic but clean (all you need when you don’t intend spending any time there!) and the hotel was conveniently located between the Brandenburg Gate and Checkpoint Charlie.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
First stop was the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, an area of various sized grey blocks built to commemorate the Jews and others murdered in the Nazi concentration camps.  One thing we liked about Berlin was that it has not tried to hide its history but has used it as to bring about change – far more thought-provoking than simply sweeping it under the carpet. From there it was on to the Brandenburg Gate where we grabbed a quick spot of lunch, the Reichstag (book online a few weeks ahead to be able to go up inside the Sir Norman Foster Cupola)   and then we just wandered around until we reached the Gendarmenmarkt and our first taste of a real German Christmas market.  As it was custom we had to partake of the Gluhwein and the markets here all sell their drinks in commemorative glasses for which you pay a €3 deposit and then it’s your choice if you take them back or keep as a souvenir. 

Gendarmenmarkt
Gendarmenmarkt
Checkpoint Charlie had always been on Bob’s to do list so that was our final destination for the day (the 3.30am start and Gluhwein were taking their toll!) but it was too dark by the time we arrived to see too much so it was back to the hotel for an early dinner and bed.  We ate in the hotel that night which had a reasonably priced restaurant serving a good selection of food.

Checkpoint Charlie
Checkpoint
CharlieOut early the following morning in the glorious sunshine to stop back at Checkpoint Charlie where one of the original guard huts still remains along with some signage.  For many the fall of the Berlin Wall is a moment many of us remember as well as the proceeding rhetoric of the Cold War which makes the history so accessible.The Wall is marked throughout the City by a line of cobbles and signs, it is hard to comprehend the difference in the lives of those living either side.

Old route of the Wall
Old route of the Wall
The early start was to get us to the Berliner Fernsehturm, a 368m high TV tower and the tallest building in Berlin.  We’d picked up last minute tickets online the night before but had to be there at 10am before general opening which in hindsight was the best move as by the time we left around 10.45, the queues to get in were getting rather long.  We only went to the viewing platform and since found out that the restaurant on the floor above rotated but given the bright morning we had great views over the City.

The TV Tower
The TV Tower
The next stop was the East Side Gallery, one of the original sections of The Wall still standing but now covered both sides in grafitti. 

More Christmas markets and Gluhwein around Alexanderplatz before a quick trip back to the hotel for a nap (another early start!) and then returning to the market by the Berliner Rathaus, a beautiful red brick building for the evening, for a spin on the Ferris Wheel and severe calorie overload from the food available on the stalls.

Ferris Wheel
Ferris Wheel
Our final day was spent around Potsdamer Platz, a total contrast to the grand historical buildings that make up much of this part of the City.  Most of the shops there can be found in any European shopping centre but the trip up to the Potsdamer Point viewing platform via the fastest lift in Europe is well worth it for views over the city. Lots of bars and restaurants although we didn’t visit any.

Potsdamer
Potsdamer
For some peace and quiet we strolled through the Tiergarten, a large wooded area to the west of the City, to the Siegessaule, the rather blingy monument originally erected to signify Prussian military victories.  €3 and 285 steps will get you to the viewing platform at the top and again worth if for an entirely different view back over the city.  Again, despite thoughts at one point that the monument should be dismantled, it hasn’t been and the area is now used for public celebrations including a New Year’s Eve party.

Siegessaule
Siegessaule
So another wonderful weekend away although with only three days we barely scratched the surface of Berlin but we did the highlights and visited the markets.  Safe to say we will be back!

A bit of Italy in October

With basic flights from Gatwick to Malpensa at around £50 return this was always going to be a good trip away with friends….

Having finally sorted out the hire car (and you think you’ve done everything from here….but that’s another story),  we drove along the beautiful Como lake side roads directly to the B&B Miralago Bellagio .  I guess this was a family home in the day and still had a great look about it.

Miralargo
Miralago

With free wifi and a really substantial breakfast it was a winner and another lucky pick from TripAdvisor!  Located on the other side of the headland in a peaceful setting, some rooms are lake facing but all clean and comfortable. Staff were friendly and accommodating and were on hand for wine and beer of an evening at very reasonable costs.  Have to say it again though….the breakfast was amazing – fresh fruit, homemade pastries and cakes as well as the continental staples of meats and bread as well as cooked eggs.  Our room was over the kitchen and the smells wafting in of a morning were worth waking up for!  The main town of Bellagio is a 10 minute walk up along winding paths in amongst the houses over a small hill. Walking down into the town revealed a stunning view out over the lake.

Bellagio
Bellagio
Lake Como
Lake Como

We had dinner that night at Ristorante La Terrazza Belvedere and with it’s view over the lake, it provided a good end to the day.  There are a number of lakeside restaurants as you would expect and offer good spots for people watching as the sun goes down behind the mountains.  Aperol and Prosecco are not necessary but it would have been rude not to!

The Stelvio Pass

The next day had been planned for a while…  A ride out to the The Stelvio Pass on the Swiss border.  It is one of the roads that Top Gear has used in the past for some of its programs.  Following a post on Facebook friends suggested that we took in the Gavia Pass too.  Great idea..however when we reached the pass we found it closed.

Road Block
Road Block

After a quick lunch of pasta in the town of Ponte di Legno at (a Pizzeria which wasn’t actually selling pizza – I would have thought that was a first in Italy) we continued on to The Stelvio Pass.  It is a stunning drive reaching snow as we approached the summit.  At the top we had been told of a stall that sold the best  Bratwurst… however as we were running late he was shutting up as we parked!..

We did manage to find a place for a coffee though..albeit there was a man sat reading porn at a nearby table….Very odd but the coffee was good.

View at the top
View at the top
The Stelvio Pass
The Stelvio Pass

Messing about on the water

Saturday was going to be a more relaxing day…  For €15 you can buy a boat ticket that allows you unlimited travel on the mid section of Lake Como. So with tickets in hand we set off from Bellagio to Menaggio, having stopped off in Varenna the night before for a Pizza.

Mid Lake in Yellow
Mid Lake in Yellow

Its is a really relaxing way to get about and see other small towns in the area with the inevitable coffee or two.  From there we took the ferry to Cadenabbia and walked, quite a few kms, to Lenno before returning to Bellagio.  If you feel so inclined there are a few cycle paths off the main road but we stuck to walking this time.

That night was a belated birthday treat for Sarah and Colin…  We went to Hotel La Pergola which was only a few minutes walking distance of our hotel.  The food was superb and not overpriced given the location (the restaurant is right on the side of the lake) but we thought the place lacked atmosphere – it was a Saturday night and we were the last to leave at around 9.15pm. However that may have been the time of year as nowhere we visited seemed busy and some places were closed for winter.

Romeo, Romeo where are ya

Coffee... of course
Coffee… of course

Sunday was off to Verona.  Only a 2 1/2 hour trip and easy parking which is always a bonus.  Of course the first stop was always going to be a coffee but from there we went to the Arena, which to be honest was little disappointing. It would have been a stunning place but they were still dismantling the stage plus all the lighting and sound rigs from the summer opera season. We were told this though when we bought a discounted entry ticket but we didn’t realise the extent to which the Arena would be covered. On the other hand we can’t imagine a more breathtaking venue in which to watch opera – not our usual theatre choice but here we would certainly give it a go!

Arena di Verona
Arena di Verona
Arena di Verona
Arena di Verona

 

We had to see the Casa di Giulietta which is said to be the location of the balcony Shakespeare based the Romeo, Romeo where are ya story.  It is a real tourist trap – despite every where else we went being fairly quiet, we found all the tourists here! But still we were in Verona so it had to be done. A beautiful building from the outside (we didn’t pay to go in) and yes we did leave our names on the wall on the entrance to the courtyard.  With both Bob and Colin being so tall it may be a while before ours are covered!

Casa di Giulietta
Casa di Giulietta
Casa di Giulietta
Casa di Giulietta

That night we ate at a place we had noticed the day before called Enoteca CavaTuracciolo.

Enoteca CavaTuracciolo
Enoteca CavaTuracciolo

We chose this place based purely on it’s looks being somewhere very different from our usual choice of restaurant and once inside we were not disappointed. Not the largest menu on the food front and don’t expect too much choice of beer (in fact the night we went they had sold out the night before with a large party) but don’t let that put you off.

Enoteca CavaTuracciolo
Enoteca CavaTuracciolo

Having little knowledge of Italian wine we opted for a suggested food/wine menu of which there were four depending on your wine preferences – pick your combination of red and white for the three glasses and for each there is an accompanying 3 course menu. The staff were very helpful and didn’t make us feel stupid for not being wine experts. The simple but delicious set menus were €24 each – we opted for cold meat starters, pasta main and all options had a cheese platter to finish. The wines varied in price – our choice of 3 reds was €18.

Enoteca CavaTuracciolo
Enoteca CavaTuracciolo

All in all a great place to spend our final night in Bellagio and would highly recommend even to non-wine buffs!

Como and home

Our last day, this time around, saw a trip to Como town.

It is really worth taking a trip on the funicular. A great place for views over Como and the surrounding area. €5.50 return journey for adults and cars every 15 minutes or so, so not too much hanging around waiting. There are restaurants and bars at the top but we didn’t visit any of them.

.

Como
Como

 

Como
Como

 

All in all a great location for a weekend away and the timing was perfect – it would probably be too busy for us in the summer.  Just over an hour from Milan and we had our perfect combination of water and mountains; the food and wine were pretty good too!

Why I won’t be using @holidayautos again

We just returned from a long weekend in Bellagio Italy.  It was a beautiful location and we had a great time but I have returned to the UK with a bit of bad taste and it was nothing to do with the Italian food… it was a result of a hire car excess …. 2800 Euro excess!

Before we left we booked an Avis hire car through Holiday Autos to be collected at Malpensa airport Milan.  We took advantage of the Collision Waiver, Theft Waiver and Third Party Protection…… now you would have thought we had it all sewn up…  Sadly not the case.  Now I am sure the excess was in the small print but, with all the above protection and waivers I didn’t pick up. I really thought I had the full set.

The end result was we paid an extra 211.98 Euros for Excess reduction and 9.15 Euros for Windscreen protection.  Yes we could have opted out and stood the 2800 Euro excess had we had a ding….. But we decided better safe than sorry.  Looking at the vehicle we ended up with there had been a couple of dings that some poor soul had probably paid the excess on!

Did it ruin the trip?… No of course not…  Did it bankrupt us… again thankfully not, but what it did result in is me never booking through Holiday Autos again..next time I will go direct to the hire company.

Bellagio
Bellagio

Italy…. for a few days…

The next planned trip is off to Italy.   Staying in Bellagio we will be exploring, drinking and eating with great friends….

One of the plans, if the weather is clear enough, is to drive the Stelvio Pass.  This has been made famous by Top Gear as one of their preferred routes

Stelvio Pass
Stelvio Pass

The planning for this trip started a while ago…. when we managed to get EasyJet tickets from London Gatwick to Milano Malpensa for £50 each…return!  Yes the price increased a bit once we had chosen seats with lots of leg room (well I,m 6’4″ and Colin is 6’7″) and hold luggage but that was our choice. Basic price was a bargain.  We found accommodation via Trip Advisor and we are good to go.

A Bank Holiday Weekend in Hertfordshire

Knowing the roads would be busy over the August Bank Holiday weekend and not long back from Pembrokeshire made a return visit to a small campsite just outside Tring an easy choice.

College Farm Campsite
College Farm Campsite

College Farm Campsite is a 5 pitch Camping and Caravanning Certified Site (CS).  It is basic with electric hook up,  fresh water, and a  chemical disposal point.

Grand Union Canal junction with the Wendover Arm
Grand Union Canal junction with the Wendover Arm

Saturday was dry and so we took a walk along the Grand Union Canal, only a few minutes walk from the site, south and then up to Ashridge National Trust site. We often cycle here for a coffee and cake at Brownlow’s Cafe.

Return route was via Aldbury and managed to grab a Geocache that had eluded us on our last trip and a pint at the Grand Junction, Bulbourne.

The only bad thing of the day was June’s huge blister on her heel…  The boots, although newish, had never given grief before so it may have been down to the socks….

As a result of the blister Sunday is a stay around the motorhome day 🙂

 

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Site contact details.

 

Helen 07798 525374

A week in Wales

Just a few photos….

 

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We had our big trip in April this year where we went to Andalusia for 18 days in the Motorhome so only enough leave for a week in summer. So off to West Wales which had stunning scenery and we had a week booked at the Caravan and Camping club site just to the north of St David’s.

 

This is easy
This is easy

On arrival the warden pointed out that it was a little windier than normal:)…. No em the less really nice site…small, 45 pitches, with washing and drying etc. No motorhome service point but no issue as we had a waste water trolley with us just in case. The nearest beach, Abereiddi, was only a 15 minute walk away through fields.

Abereiddy
Abereiddy

Tuesday saw a trip into St David’s where we booked a boat trip for Friday and managed to grab wifi at a cafe called Pebbles Yard.

Wednesday was just a little damp but during one of the dry bits we headed off to Porthgain, a small village about 2-3 miles along the coastal path. Very similar to the North Cornwall coast line the path held some stunning views that you just wouldn’t see from a car… As we descended into Porthgain it began to rain but still the Sloop Inn was dry and had great food. We couldn’t stay there all day so during a lull in the rain we headed back to the Motorhome bagging a couple of geocaches on the way….. The rain did come down a little harder but hey….. It was only rain. Amy’s few words describe her thoughts…..


So today was very interesting as I had mixed emotions and we also had mixed weather. So we well I mean I started the day at about 11:10 in the morning, ( as you can tell I am not an early bird ) as I lugged my self out of our tent and managed to burn a bagel. Yet I was still in a good mood thinking ” yes it is raining no walking today!!” Yet the raining stopped for all of about 20 mins and started again but we I kept on pushing though. I got told by bob that it was going to be roughly 2 miles there and back and I was thinking ” yeh I can do that pips” ohhhh no it was 4 miles there and it wasn’t fun and please note that I was in nee length thin shorts, a thin walking top, a ‘water proof’ jacket and walking boots which I soon find to have holes in. So I was going from a happy mood to a very wet unhappy mood. We walk 2 miles and me being me started to complain and complain in my head but I was like cab to say it out loud so I just kept it in there. 


By the time we had gotten there my face made me look like I had been crying for months, my legs looks like I have walked into the sea and my boots well let’s just say there were very very wet socks. Yet there was s lovely cheese and bacon baguette waiting for me in the sloop inn.

Just a little rain
Just a little rain
Just a little rain
Just a little rain

 

Thursday we had a couple of hours coasteering booked with Celtic Quest . Getting to the beach at Abereiddi by 9.00 was the plan and it ensured that we had a spot for the Motorhome in the car park.

 

Coasteering was great fun and the instructors we had, Gaz and Nick were a good laugh, Nick managing to get June to do a penguin dive. The trip ended in a disused flooded quarry, the Blue Lagoon. This has in the past been the scene of Red Bull free diving competitions. We opted for a slightly lower option but the highest just was about 30 feet.

Coasteering
Coasteering

 

Friday was an even earlier start to get to St Justinian’s life boat station for an Offshore Island Whale and Dolphin Watch with www.ramseyisland.co.uk. It was a beautiful sunny day and the sea was really calm. Once on board we headed off to Grassholm which has a large colony of Gannets. As the Rib approached the island we took a sudden turn north and headed off at speed to a pod of Dolphins that had been found by another Rib. Once in the area we had about 2 dozen beauties swimming between the two boats. It was stunning. After a while we headed back to Grassholm to see the Gannets closer…. For Chloe, one made a deposit a little too close.  The trip back to the old lifeboat station saw a couple more Dolphins and a bit of ‘zapping’ by the skipper as he pulled a couple of tighter turns.

RIB Trip
RIB Trip
RIB Trip
RIB Trip

 

 

Abereiddy
Abereiddy

A day on the Nene..

 

It was time to visit Canoe 2  again we felt… This was the second visit and I am sure we will come back again.  They are such a professional setup that just can’t do enough for you.  We had planned this for the August Bank Holiday weekend but we had to change..  This was no problem for Canoe 2 who even changed the booking at the campsite next door for us too.  Camping was £15 a night with electric.

Arriving Friday night in the pouring rain we were grateful for the motorhome…even more so when we heard that some folk were arriving later and having to put up tents…

Last time we set off from their base at Ditchford Lock in south Northamptonshire and finished at Thrapston Nine Arches.  So this time we had a taxi, again arranged by Canoe 2, to take us to Thrapston so we could paddle to Oundle Mill.  It was a great day out, stopping off at Kings Head at Wadenhoe for lunch.

Three in a boat
Three in a boat

As we ended the trip we were collected and taken back to the campsite.  All in all a good day out on the river.  We did get a quick glimpse of a KingFisher as it flew ahead of us….

We did take 2 GoPros out so when I get time there will be a short 2 minute video put together.

The River Nene
The River Nene

 

The River Nene
The River Nene

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Cordoba

Our final stop of the trip, and the only major city, was Cordoba, high on June’s list of “must sees”. Straight into the Aire (well almost, just the one one block circled a couple of times) which amazingly is situated just across from the San Basilio gate to the old city. It was also the La Fiesta De Los Patios De Cordoba when many of the old Cordoban houses open their doors to their stunning flower filled patios (or courtyards) to the public.

Having parked to the satisfaction of the car park boss we headed straight into the main part of the old town around the Alcazar and the Mezquita ca

therdral. Both pay homage to the City’s previous rulers – the Romans, the Moors and then the Spanish creating a unique blend of faiths and history.

First stop was the Mezquita (entry €8 each) now a Catholic Cathedral but on the site of former mosque, once considered the most important place of Western Islam. The combination is overwhelming and if only the followers of both religions could come together as harmoniously as the architecture. Another case of the photos speaking more than any words we could write……

Inside the Mezquita
Inside the Mezquita
Inside the Mezquita
Inside the Mezquita

From there we wandered around the old Jewish quarter before going to the Alcazar (entry €4.50) which although built as a palace fortress for the Christian has a Moorish inspired garden. Not quite the Alhambra in Granada, but still beautiful.

The gardens of the Alcazar
The gardens of the Alcazar
The gardens of the Alcazar
The gardens of the Alcazar

Our final day before beginning the journey back to the UK. We headed back into town and decided to take one of the City Sightseeing Red Bus Tours to see if there were any other parts of the city we had missed. It turns out we hadn’t and much of the rest of the city was very much like most modern Spanish cities with the big department stores and international chains. We spent the afternoon wandering the maze of white-washed buildings which make up the old town doing a little shopping on the way. A temperamental fridge meant that we had to throw away a considerable amount of food earlier in the day so we had the perfect excuse to go out for dinner that evening and the perfectly balmy evening meant we could eat outside at the Restaurante Puerta Sevillle (also recommended for drinks on the way back to the Aire following a hard day’s sightseeing!).