Wed 22nd and today’s destination is Marrakech via the Tizi n Test pass through the High Atlas. The road through the mountains runs for around 150km or so and climbs to a height of 2092m through almost continuous hairpin bends. It is barely one car wide in places but with the way the road bends and turns you can see for miles and pull over well ahead of meeting anything coming in the opposite direction. Today’s coffee stop was at the highest point – the cafe was called Belle Vue and certainly lived up to its name.

Along the way we stop at the Tin Mal mosque which sits just off the main road and is open to non-Muslim’s as it is being restored to its 12th century glory. Although very plain looking from the outside, once we passed through the small door we are overwhelmed by its beauty; the arches which supported the original roof have been rebuilt using the traditional materials and methods as are the intricate plaster carvings and wooden roof beams. We are given a brief history by the guardian – it’s all in a mixture of basic English and French but enough for us all to understand each other! There is no entry fee to the mosque and we are left to decide how much to donate – Dh10 is a suggested amount but we enjoyed the place so much we felt this was not enough. A highly recommended place to stop.

We continued down the pass looking for a place for lunch and decided from the map that Asni would be good. It’s the usual one street town with cafes all along the road side but from the minute we parked the van we were pursued relentlessly by men trying to sell “silver” jewellery or wanting us to exchange Dhirams for UK coinage they had. Lunch was good but we couldn’t wait to leave the town for some peace and quiet.

One decision we have to make occasionally is whether we should follow the driving instructions we are given or follow Tom Tom blindly and today was one of those situations. We very rarely have precise directions as they are not needed but with the big towns we have been given co-ordinates for those with sat-navs. So we enter Marrakech with our instructions to turn left and follow the Casablanca road; Tom Tom however says otherwise and the road starts heading towards the chaotic city square of Djemaa el Fna. By this point we have ignored 3 left turns to Casablanca (at which point I absolve myself of any navigational responsibility) and Chris, who is following us (we suggested we should lead as we had sat-nav….) and who has the same driving instructions is on the radio suggesting that maybe we should turn off! After a few hairy moments at roundabouts and junctions we do eventually meet the road we should be on and find the campsite although we miss the supermarket which was on the other road. Another of “Bob’s Detours” journeys and a chance for everyone to give him some stick in camp that night.

We settle into the campsite (Camping Ferdaous) and set ourselves up for another two night stay. although the campsite here is a large gravelled square, there are some trees to provide shade and the facilities are perfectly useable. We decline the city tour the following morning and pop to the supermarket we missed the day before to stock up before going into the main square in the late afternoon. There is a shuttle bus running into the camp site which is about 13km from the city centre which costs Dh20 per person each way. Our first stop in town is the Government shop which has everything you could find in the souk but at fixed prices which is relief from having to haggle constantly.

In the gardens of the Koutoubia Mosque we bag the oddest geocache – it is actually held by one of the gardeners. We had to hang around the general area of the cache in the hope he spotted us and once he did we were able to swap the coin we had been carrying for a while for a new one. Sadly this was the only cache we found here.

With all the shopping done we went to Cafe de France for dinner on the 3rd floor terrace overlooking the square, as the sun set and the square took on its night character – something we managed to capture on time-lapse photos. Great fun people watching again.

Today, Tues 21st May, will be our longest driving day of 320km/200 miles for tonight’s wild camp just north of Aoulouz at the foot of the High Atlas. The route is back along the Draa Valley where we stopped to buy a box of dates from a roadside seller (a good recommendation from the guide book) and then along the plane, where the scenery does become a little boring after a while.

Most days we stop along the route for nus nus and then again for lunch. The breaks from the bumpy road are most welcome and give us the chance to people watch for a while – one of our favourite habits! We pull off the main road late afternoon into a clearing on farmland in the middle of nowhere but with a clear view to the mountains and tomorrow’s route through them. Dinner is eaten as the sun sets behind the peaks and a local farm drives his sheep and goats through the site on his way home.

Sun 19th May and we head to Zagora for a two night stay. For a change we do take the direct route as it’s the only one and it takes us through the Draa Valley with its kasbahs and palmeries. The town of Zagora is like may others with one main street and the buildings are all modern as it is a local government town. Camping d’Amazrou is a total surprise and set in a palmery with small grassy tree-lined areas for the vans. Once we had picked our pitch the staff laid out mats and carpets by the van door and came by once we had settled in with mint tea. Oh and the business card for the family shop in the town – never is an opportunity to promote a shop missed!

Another group meal tonight – chicken tagine cooked by Hamed who is following in his father’s footsteps and producing delicious food. We had the opportunity here to do a four wheel drive trip into the desert the following day but decided against it and after a little shopping just relaxed around the van and recharged the batteries. There is a lot of driving on this trip and mostly just one night stays so having the extra night was a bonus.

Sat 18th May and today we travel through the stunning Todra Gorge on our way to Tazzarine. The Gorge runs through 300m high sheer cliffs of red sandstone and at points narrows to just the road and the river wide. Having been before we didn’t stop this time although I probably still took hundreds of photos!

Camping Bougarfer (don’t quote me on the spelling) is another combined hotel/campsite although it’s clear to see where the money has been spent. The “campsite” is nothing more than a huge gritted area with a tap under a tree in the centre although plenty of electric sockets around the perimeter wall. There were toilet and shower facilities but the less said the better…. However we did have use of hotel swimming pool at a cost of Dh50 / £3.90 each but with it getting hotter and dustier is was worth every penny. South of the Atlas and temperatures are in the late 30sC (sorry to all those freezing at home in the UK!) although night time temperatures continue to be comfortable.

Friday 17th and tonight’s destination is Tamtattouche at the northern end of Todra Gorge. But first we have to get out of the campsite…..

The campsite at Meski lies in an oasis at the bottom of a steep, slick, crazy-paved, twisting driveway and the only way to get out is put your foot down and go for it. One by one everyone takes a go and gets out on to the road; all except one that is. After several attempts someone offers to tow the van out but it was the oldest and smallest van – a bit like David towing Goliath and needless to say it didn’t work. However after one last go with some extra weight at the front, the van was out. We said goodbye to Mohammed here and his delicious cooking and set off for today’s drive.

As with most of this tour, we do not head straight to our destination but take the scenic route through the southern edge of the High Atlas. Anyone who has driven in Morocco will know that the roads are not that good, if they exist at all and those that have tarmac are usually full of potholes. When we got the new van we loved the spice rack which sat above the glass topped hob but the spice jars had a real dislike for the Moroccan roads and kept jumping out of the rack. Up until today no damage had been done but as we were oohing and aahing at the stunning rock formations there was suddenly a crash from the rear of the van and the shattering of glass. First casualty of the trip and top of the list to buy when we get home – a new hob top! Not an hour later the blind spot mirror disappeared as Bob got a little close to the roadside trees but luckily Chris and Penny were behind us and had seen what happened so stopped to pick it up for us.

After no further mishaps we arrived at Campsite Bad Dou, the best site we had been to yet; hot showers, a swimming pool (bloody cold but great to spend some time relaxing by!) and even washing machines! The food continues to be excellent and good value with 3 course set meals around Dh100 each (about £8) in most places.

Thurs 16th May. Our stop tonight is Source bleue de Meski – one of our favourite places from the last trip but as with most of this trip, we do not take the direct route! First stop is Gourrama for a sneaky nus nus, well it wouldn’t be right to pass a coffee shop and not stop, and it’s then on to Boudnib. Here we have a guide and are shown round an old kasbah (walled town) which despite being devastated by a huge flood in 2008, still has some inhabitants. The King, who is a major factor in modernising much of the agriculture in the country, granted funds to be made available for the restoration of the kasbah, including the installation of electricity, although many people have moved to the new town.

 

Slight problem on the way out when one of the vans got stuck in the dried riverbed where we were parked! After much discussion amongst the men and with the use of anti-slip mats, the van was finally free and we were on our way again.

 

 

 

The campsite at Meski is built around a natural spring which fills a swimming pool. Not being totally sure that the water was parasite free, we gave swimming a miss so spent the afternoon drinking tea in the various shops on site – the tea drinking is a vital part of shopping and price negotiating here! An impromptu drumming session accompanied the tea with Abdul and it was then on to Beni who had been our unofficial guide last time we were here; if there was anything you wanted then Beni could provide it! Bob was after a silver bangle and managed to find one in amongst the rucksack of goodies Beni was unwrapped as sadly a break-in last month meant that he no longer kept the good jewellery on show.

Beni remembered the girls from the last trip and wanted to give them something so after dinner we went back to his house to collect a bottle of olive oil. He also wanted to show us his house of which he is very proud (it’s a beautiful place) and to which we have been invited to stay on our next trip back…..

Wed 15th May. We were waved off from Fatima’s by the children and left feeling suitably humbled. We continued to head up into the Mid-Atlas with the High Atlas to our south and over Legionnaire’s Pass where there is a monument to those who lost their lives in the construction of the road through the mountains. Since coming into the mountains we’ve rarely been below 1700m, higher than anywhere in the UK.

 

The scenery continues to change – greys to greens to the bright red sandstone with the rocks bent and broken as nature has taken its course over millions of years. Man’s impact on the land can be seen through the creation of numerous lakes as rivers are dammed to provide irrigation for agriculture but the roads are continually washed out by flash floods moving huge boulders down from the mountains.

Tonight’s campsite is on a desolate plain bounded by small mountains to the north and south and on the site of a former secret prison for political prisoners. Nowadays the building that is left is used for mechanically crushing rocks mined from the nearby mountains.

The following morning we went for a walk up along the track which ran behind the campsite and up the mountain where we had spectacular views of the valley in which Chefchaouen is nestled.  The afternoon was spent trying, unsuccessfully, to avoid the heat as it is apparently unusually hot for this time of year – temperatures are around the mid 30sC  during the day although the evenings are considerably cooler and sleeping is not difficult.  Another group meal, this time at Casa Aladin which is set on four floors overlooking the main town square and again ridiculously cheap at Dh85 (£6.50) each for a three course set menu.

Fri 10th and up early for the journey to tonight’s wild camping beside a lake.  As the crow flies this is a journey of no more than 50miles but with the bulk of Rif Mountains in the way and lack of decent roads this becomes 150miles which takes 5 1/2 hours.  The driving is, shall we say, a little on the iffy side; no thoughts about lanes, overtaking into oncoming traffic on blind bends, the road shrinking to one vehicle wide……

The scenery continues to be breathtaking as the road winds its way up and down and around the mountains.  We drive through Bab-Berret where people, cars and cattle cross the road as they want.

Lunch was at Ketama and literally at a roadside butchers; you have to go through the carcasses hanging outside to get into the seating area where we had freshly made lamb keftas and cutlets.

The road continued through the Rif and we headed towards Ourtzarh across a bridge; well I say bridge….it was one lane wide, just, and in places the river below can be seen through the holes in the boards.

The campsite that night was on the banks of a lake with just donkeys and sheep for company.  However given the intensity of the driving it was an early night all round just after a beautiful sunset across the lake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We left the madness of the border and headed to Martil and Camping Al Boustame – no real change to the campsite since the last time (no shower heads and only one proper loo with a bucket of water instead of a chain) but the town itself has had millions spent on it;  the promenade along the front could be any resort in Europe of wide pavements edged with cafes.

A little admin done and it was time for our first proper mint tea….nothing quite like it.  Most of the group decided to have dinner at the onsite restaurant that night. We had the swordfish which had been delivered fresh that afternoon and was cooked to perfection.  It was take your own booze so the two course meal for the two of us was the vast sum of £24!

Not so early start this morning before heading into the Rif  Mountains via the supermarket and petrol station; at today’s exchange rate fuel here is about 64p per litre so we will try to leave the country will a full tank!  It was our first trip into the Rif that started our fascination with Morocco – everywhere is so green and the scenery is stunning.

The stop for tonight (Wed 8th) is Chefchauoen, the “Blue Town” and a favourite site based on location (don’t think we’d ever rate a site here on facilities!).  After the usual briefing meeting to orientate everyone to the campsite and the town (and this time with the extra of cake to celebrate several birthdays) it was a short walk into the maze of the town.  The four of us (we’re here with Penny and Chris who we met on the last trip) got totally lost trying to get to the main square.  We were finally shown the way after Chris promised a shop owner he would visit again tomorrow to buy something – sadly we are busy in the morning! A quick wander around the town and it was time to watch the crowds with a mint tea. a pattern we’ll repeat in most towns.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So here we are four years on from when first thought about coming back to Morocco (that was actually half way through  our last trip in 2009 with www.desertdetours.com).  Due to work we leave the UK on the evening of Friday 3rd May and have to be at the meeting point near San Roque in southern Spain by lunchtime on Monday.  After a bum-numbing 1953km and 21 hours driving time we make it with time to spare. For those interested we stayed at the Aire Baix de la Somme, Abbeville on Friday and Aire Bidart, Bayonne on Saturday.  Sunday night was in a nameless service station to the south of Seville, having taking the more picturesque route through Spain via Salamanca and not Madrid.  With time against us we had to stick to the toll roads at a cost of almost €180 but they are empty so well worth it.

After the hours spent travelling over the weekend the quick 90 minute hop over Los Alcornocales on Monday morning into Algeciras was nothing!  A little shopping to top the cupboards up and ensure the wine cellar is fully stocked (Morocco is a dry country), then it’s off to the meeting point at Casa Bernardos, another well used restaurant/service station/lorry park to join up with our fellow travellers and the tour leaders.  A smaller group this time with just seven vans plus Steve our leader/guide.  Ray is with us to begin with and will then disappear to do a recce of Eastern Morocco for future possible tours before catching up with us later in the trip.

After a sleepless night (lorries coming and going, dogs barking) it’s a 6.45 start to get to the port for the 8am ferry.  We only lose two vans on the way to the port but they soon find us and it’s a gentle crossing to Ceuta and the dreaded border crossing into Morocco.  It’s quite difficult to describe the chaos at the border and you cannot take photographs; there are just bodies and vehicles everywhere!  Moroccans shop in Ceuta which is still part of Spain so cars and people are constantly being stopped to see who and what in going in and out of the country.  Three marked lanes become about five cars wide and some cars are doing U-turns as they are turned away from entering Morocco for who knows why. Lots of men want to “assist” us with immigration and the van importation but for a fee of course.  And to top everything else the port is undergoing major reconstruction so there are workmen and dust to add the the usual melee.  However Ray has taken care of all the necessary “expediting payments” and after an hour or so of watching the chaos we’re through and the trip can begin……

…. the day has arrived. We have both been like 8 year olds in the way we have been looking forward to this trip. I can’t recall being like this for the 2009 trip to Morocco, but maybe we were.

Stopped at a garage to top up the gas system and tyres. While there I was approached by 2 separate people asking about the Motorhome. My answer, as always, is…. If you have thought about it do some serious research and go for it.

I left early for Ashford, where I will be meeting June, as I just wanted to get around the M25. A lot of people knock the London Orbital motorway but if I’m honest I have only been caught in tailbacks a couple of times. And I didn’t want this to be another.

It did mean I had to stop off at services once or twice for a Costa. It’s a tough life we live.

We the departure date is getting closer. With my eldest son moving in Thursday so the house is occupied although it s a bit further for him to drive I feel better knowing he will be here watch the place….

 

Penny and Chris have already left for a steady drive down to the South of Spain. Ours will be a little less sedate though as we leave Friday :).