Peru – November/December 2025

On 27/01/202627/01/2026 By JuneIn FullTiming, Pan American Highway

Having spent our honeymoon in Peru in 2011 we were looking forward to returning and exploring areas we hadn’t visited previously. The Pan American sticks mostly to the coast which means day after day of driving through the northern reaches of the Atacama desert and we soon got tired of the bleak, rubbish strewn highway (Peru has one of the worst litter and fly-tipping problems of all the countries we have visited).

Having stopped at Swiss Wasi campsite for a few days to get ourselves back together after a border crossing we spent one night at Punta Balcones, the most westerly point in South America – one of those things we just had to do!

The most westerly point in South America

Further down the coast is Chan Chan, once the largest pre-Columbian city in the Americas and the largest adobe city in the world but now it’s a sprawling archaeological site which is partly being restored. The entrance ticket (PEN10 or about £2.20 when we visited) covers several sites and you need to drive or take a taxi between them. Definitely worth a visit if in the area

We then headed inland following route 12 before joining the notoriously bad 3N (that’s so bad that it is now closed in one section for total reconstruction). It was only 300km between campsites but it took us three days to drive it but the scenery was stunning and we were happy to take it slowly.

At least we could see the light at the end of the tunnel

From the campsite in Caraz we took a trip with the campsite owner to Lago Parón, a beautiful glacial lake located at 4,200m above sea level. From the car park there’s a short hike up a steep path to the mirador and given the altitude it’s a bit of an effort but the views are worth it.

From Caraz we moved on to Carnuaz and on to the Parque Nacional Huascaran. At the highest point in the park we drove through the world’s highest road tunnel, the Túnel Punta Olímpica, which sits at 4,680m.

At this altitude it is difficult to sleep so we dropped down to a small village in the valley to spend the night. These are by far the highest altitudes we have been to and our breathing is a little hard at times but we are slowly acclimatising.

We cannot get to our next location directly so have to go back to the coast, crossing mountains before psyching ourselves up to tackle the road through Lima. We had read lots of tales of driving through Lima so we left our overnight spot at 5.15am and arrived at the supermarket on the other side of the city at 9.30am. It was non-stop traffic all the way and vehicles come at you from all directions with buses stopping in any lane to pick up or set down passengers. Total chaos and we’ll probably have to do it again one day heading in the opposite direction.

We spent some time in Cusco during our honeymoon and were looking forward to going back. We were a little concerned that our memories might be rose tinted but we’re glad to report we enjoyed ourselves just as much as the first time. We had time on this visit to explore more of the city and sit in the main square, drinking coffee and generally watching the world go by.

Whilst there we met up with June’s goddaughter and her partner who are on a four month trip around South America. We booked a cookery class and after a wander around the market we went back to the kitchen studio to make delicious food and cocktails.

Peru is home to several “rainbow mountains” where layers of rock of different colours are exposed. From our campsite, the owner’s brother Josue, drove us up a rather muddy and rocky road to the Cordillera de Colores Palccoyo.

From the car park Josue took us around the mountain where we climbed up to a breathtaking 5,000m.

The Q’eswachaka Bridge is the last remaining Inca rope suspension bridge, spanning 28m across the Apurimac River. Each summer the bridge is rebuilt by the local Quechua communities using traditional ichu grass weaving techniques, a tradition dating back more than 600 years.

Due to protests back in 2011 we were unable to visit Puño on Lake Titicaca so we weren’t going to miss it this time. We took a boat trip out on to the lake to visit the floating Uros Islands and the island of Taquile, which has a long history of textiles, knitting and weaving.

Being totally honest we’re not so sure if we enjoyed the day. It was hard to tell who was exploiting who on the Uros – we appreciate the islanders have to make money but everywhere you turned there was someone asking for money for something but then again they are reliant on the tourists boats for income.

On Taquile we didn’t see too much of the crafts for which they are known but we put that down to our being a little out of season so many places were closed.

We had a few days to spare so we moved on to the Colca Canyon. It costs PEN70 per person (just over £15) to enter the national park but tickets are valid for three days and we were able to park overnight at a mirador at no extra cost. This was great as the tour buses come in early in the morning to see the condors but are gone by about 11am at which point we had the area to ourselves.

Not just condors…. The giant hummingbird

We had a little wander along the path at the top of the canyon and were able to spot the condors all day – they are such majestic birds soaring through the canyon on the thermals.

It’s fair to say that Peru lived up to our expectations and Cusco still remains one of our favourite cities. We will also definitely be back!

General info

Diesel averaged around PEN14.50 per gallon (converts to approximately 85p a litre using an exchange rate of PEN4.50 to £1). No problem with getting fuel.

Campsites were all well equipped and reasonably priced.

The roads on the whole were in awful condition and full of potholes. Away from the main roads and especially in the mountains, the tarmac would be nonexistent. Blind, unlit tunnels are also common.

Insurance and SOAT

Insurance in Peru isn’t as simple as the U.K.

We have insurance already to cover damage etc to our van but in addition we had to get

SOAT — Seguro Obligatorio de Accidentes de Tránsito

This is the only insurance that Peruvian law makes compulsory for all motor vehicles

It covers Medical care and hospital costs for injuries from a traffic accident, Compensation for death or disability of victims, Injuries to passengers, pedestrians, or other third parties, regardless of who caused the accident.

In addition we bought insurance to cover damage caused to other people’s vehicles, buildings, or property (beyond personal injury).

Campsites used

Swiss Wassi, Zorritos: PEN45 pn for van and 2 people including EHU. Toilet and shower available for free but use of kitchen, swimming pool and washing machine are at additional cost. Quite a tight parking area but right on the beach and fairly level. Food can be ordered and some drinks and basic supplies available. Friendly hosts and the place many travellers stay when crossing the border.

Hostel Casa Amelia, Huanchao: PEN40 pn including hook up. Shower and toilet available along with a large communal kitchen and seating area. Tight parking – the site is basically the front garden of a house but is secure behind a large gate. The hosts, Amelia and Victor, were a couple of the friendliest people we have met. A short walk into town for restaurants and bars (it’s a big surfing town) and a taxi ride to the pre-Colombian city of Chan Chan which is currently undergoing restoration. The roads were a mess when we visited but there’s lots of ongoing construction.

Camping Guadalupe, Caraz: PEN25 pppn including hook up. Great toilet/shower block and outdoor kitchen. Parking is on a large grass area. The town of Caraz and its market are within walking distance or a short tuk tuk ride. Jaime, the owner, is friendly and helpful and will take you up to Lake Parón for a fee – the road to the lake was definitely not suitable for our van!

Biosol Ecocamp: PEN50pn. Parking is in a large grassy area close to the cliff top. Showers and toilets available and there’s a swimming pool onsite. A small flock of geese roam the site so it’s a bit messy in places. Great place to stop after negotiating Lima.

Casa Lena, Curahuasi: PEN20pppn. A great campsite which supports the educational NGO onsite. Mostly aimed at tents or those who stay in the B&B there are a few spots for camper vans or small motorhomes – we parked on a small grassy area. Great shower block. The road in was heavily rutted but thankfully dry.

Quinta Lala, Cusco: PEN42 per night broken down into PEN12 pp, PEN12 for the van and PEN6 EHU.

Casa de Luz Marina, near Combapata: PEN20 pn parking on a large grass area in front of Luz’s restaurant and small holding. Water and power are available but you need to ask. Luz will prepare food for you at a small cost – breakfast, lunch and dinner are all on offer. She had a couple of English speaking volunteers staying when we visited who translated during our tour of the small holding which also includes a guinea pig farm (a common meal in Peru). Her father tends to the few cattle, horses and llamas whilst her brother runs trips up to the nearby Rainbow Mountain – definitely a better option than trying to drive the van up there!

Sonesta Posadas Del Inca, Puno: USD30 pn parking in a large grass area to the side of the hotel which is designated for motorhome parking, Electric was supposedly available but we didn’t find it and as we were doing ok on solar we didn’t ask for it. Water is available and you can use a toilet and shower in the hotel. It looked like they were building a dedicated bathroom block for motorhomes. The hotel is about 20 mins from the tourist boat pier.

Other places stayed

Punta Balcones: free parking in the car park at the most westerly point in South America. A bit windy and spectacular sunsets. The road in/out is prone to drifting sand which was quite deep in places.

Chiclayo Truck Stop: PEN10 for overnight stay in a large car park. Quieter than we expected, especially as we were directed away from the truck parking area. Not the most picturesque stop but safe and secure.

Rio Santa Pirate Camp, near Mirador: gravel area off the 3N above the Rio Santa. Great place to overnight whilst tackling one of the worst roads in Peru!

Plaza Major, Chacas: PEN 6 but that seems to be dependent on the day! Parking in the main square of the town of Chacas so street noise is inevitable but it wasn’t too bad on the night we stayed. It was difficult though to find anywhere level to park. Interesting little town to visit.

Parque Pariacoto: a quiet night parked up in the town square.

Playa Chica, Santa Rosa: car park for the beach. No problems with staying overnight before the run through Lima early the following morning. Nearby restaurants and toilets open during the day.

Nuevo Santiago on the route 30A: a large gravel area off the road. Lorries do stop here from time to time but on the whole it was very quiet. No facilities.

Q’eswachaka bridge visitor centre car park: we asked when buying entrance tickets if we could stay in the car park for the night and they said yes. Toilets are open so long as there are staff around. We were approached in the van early evening by two locals (we had seen them around) who said we had to pay to stay but they couldn’t decide how much! We finally agreed on PEN10 (just over £2).

Cheq’atoro Camp Restaurant, near Pukara: a restaurant and ceramic studio which allows overnight parking behind the property. Free to park but a visit to the cafe/restaurant is appreciated. There is access to the restaurant toilets. A great place to stop when crossing the Altoplano.

Condor Mirador, Colca Canyon: large parking area for the mirador where people come to watch the condors. There are toilets but they were only open in the mornings. The tour buses didn’t bother us and by about 11am we had the place to ourselves. There’s a path nearby where you can walk along the rim of the canyon and spot wildlife and birds.

San Jose Plaza: undisturbed overnight parking in the town square. No facilities.

Repsol Garage, Tacna: PEN10pn which includes access to toilets and showers. It’s a lorry park so there’s some noise but we parked out of the way at the back and had a reasonable night. Not at all picturesque but perfectly functional and safe.

Panama – June to August 2025

On 17/10/202517/10/2025 By JuneIn FullTiming, Pan American Highway

On entering Panama we made our way straight to Panama City where we would be storing the van whilst we took a short break back in the UK. When we returned we had some technical issues so bounced back to Panama City to get those fixed and then again we were preparing for shipping. This made our stay here a little bitty but we did get to see some of the country.

New country, new sticker for the rear of the van.

Having started the Pan-American as far north as we could drive in northern Canada we felt it only right that we drove as far south as possible this side of the Darien Gap. The road ends in Yaviza after which it’s just jungle tracks controlled by people smugglers and drug cartels all the way to Colombia and for several miles after that.

The end of the Pan American Highway on the North American Continent

No visit to Panama would be complete without seeing the canal. We spent a few days in Gamboa, parked next to “Herman the German”, a huge crane which was acquired by the US as part of WWII war reparations before being moved to Panama in 1995.

We also visited the Panama Rainforest Discovery Centre which is home to a variety of hummingbirds but just not during the season we visited!

Our next stop was Santa Catalina on the south coast from where we took a day trip with Unlimited Adventures to Coiba, a former prison island but which is now a national park and part of a marine conservation corridor from the Galapagos to Costa Rica.

During the day we stopped to snorkel several times.

The final part of the journey back to the mainland was through a horrendous storm and on such a small boat, we got very very wet!

As usual, after a few days on the coast the temperature and humidity wore us down so we moved to the central highlands where it was a little cooler. The hike at La Silampa is relatively short at around 6.5km for the round trip but not having done any exercise for while the walk back was a killer. It’s all downhill to some natural pools on the way out which meant after a cool swim, it was all uphill on the way back – the total ascent was over 450m.

El Valle is located inside a long extinct volcano and is favoured by expats. There are several hikes from the town up to and around the crater’s edge but after the exertion of La Silampa we decided to take it easy!

Once the van was delivered to the port in Colon, we headed back to Panama City where we had an Airbnb apartment in the centre of the Casco Viejo, the old city built in the Spanish colonial times. The area was full of bars, restaurants and museums and is easy to wander around on foot.

The old town of Panama is well worth a few days.

Having eaten in the restaurant next to the apartment which served typical Panamanian food, June booked a cooking lesson which also included a trip to the local markets.

They were very accommodating and Bob was able to join the group when it came to eating what we had prepared.

The city, like a lot of places, is a real mish mash of the old and the new. Panama City is a global financial hub and there are plenty of shiny high rise buildings to contrast with the old colonial ones.

Uber taxis are cheap and abundant in the city so we took a cab to the Miraflores Visitor Centre on the Panama Canal. The admission fee of $17 for foreigners includes a visit to the IMAX theatre to watch a film about the construction of the canal (well worth seeing in our opinion) and then as much time as you like in the viewing area to watch the ships navigate the locks.

The ships travel from the Pacific to the Caribbean in the mornings and in the opposite direction in the afternoons with it taking an average of 11.5 hours to get from one coast to the other.

In 2017 a third channel was constructed to accommodate ships of an ever increasing size.

General info

Diesel was around 63p a litre and was plentiful but on the other hand, there seemed to be only one place where we could refill our LPG bottles! There were plenty of places to refill regular cylinders but not our Gaslo system, only the Tropigas depot on the road between Panama City and Colon where we filled directly from the tanker lorry. We took water from wherever we stayed which we used to drink but all our water passes through a filter.

On the whole the roads were OK but the driving style was adventurous to say the least and an indication of what was to come!

We felt safe in Panama and did not always stay on campsites, finding places to stay via iOverlander.

We can highly recommend Off-road Megastore in Panama City who sorted out electrical issues for us. They can supply and fit Victron parts. We also had a good experience at Procars who ultimately couldn’t fix our problem so referred us on to Off-road Megastore.

We have a separate post on the process of shipping from Panama to Cartagena

Campsites used

Villa Paula, Boquerón: $10 per night parking in a large grassy field. Showers, toilets and kitchen facilities available. Food and beer available to buy. Seems to be the place people stay before or after crossing the border with Costa Rica.

Overland Embassy, Panama City: $15 for us (cost variable depending on vehicle). Small secure parking lot about 100m from the OE office with toilets, showers and kitchen facilities. Short walking distance to supermarkets, laundries and a great tool/maintenance/diy shop. We stayed here four times in the end. Alejandro and his team can provide assistance with all things overland travel and vehicle related including shipping services.

Casa Manila, Santa Catalina: $10 in a small grass car park, muddy when wet. Shower and toilet available. The campsite is a short walk into the village of Santa Catalina from where you can take tours to Coiba National Park.

Other places stayed

Terpel service station x 2. Many service stations have toilets, showers and washing machines with large parking areas for lorries. We have never used the facilities but find the fuel stations safe, if sometimes noisy, for overnight parking if breaking up a long journey.

Metiti shopping centre. Surprisingly quiet once the shops had closed and no one bothered us at all.

Avicar Hotel: the hotel has a large car park in which they permit overnight parking. We did eat in the restaurant as a means of giving them a form of payment.

Gamboa: a small car park behind the police station and next to the Panama Canal. Hardstanding but levelling blocks needed. No other facilities. Great for watching the ships pass and to visit Panama Rainforest Discovery Centre. The only downside was the occasional train carrying containers but they seemed to only pass during the day.

La Silampa trailhead: $5. A small grassy uneven parking area across from the trailhead. No facilities.

Villa Miramonte,El Valle: free parking in the beautiful garden and with use of a toilet and shower in the house. A short walk into town for shops,restaurants and hikes.

Panama City causeway/ park: free parking close to the area of the city we needed to be in early the following morning to begin the shipping process. We started out on the causeway but at night it can turn into a track for the local boy racers who treat it like a drag racing track! We gave up at midnight and moved to a nearby park which was so very much quieter.

Belize – March 2025

On 16/04/2025 By JuneIn Belize, FullTiming, Pan American Highway

We exited Mexico and entered Belize at the Santa Elena border point. This was a relatively simple crossing very much aided by one of the official languages of Belize being English! The process here was immigration, customs and road tax, and then the compulsory insurance and we were through in less than an hour.

Once through the border we headed through fields of sugarcane to the town of Orange Walk and a supermarket. There is a large Chinese population in Belize who descend from indentured Chinese workers who were brought into the country by the British to work in timber camps. Nowadays most of the supermarkets, fast food places and lottery sellers are Chinese owned. This did mean though that we were able to replenish our stock of sweet chilli sauce, plain noodles as well as several items from the UK!

We came to Orange Walk to do a trip along the New River to the Mayan Ruins at Lamanai with Lamanai River Tours who also allowed us to stay in their car park for a couple of nights. Unlike Mexico the ruins here have not been reconstructed but simply partially excavated so as to show all the layers of construction. Lamanai is now surrounded by jungle and as we explored the site we were accompanied by the very loud screeching of howler monkeys.

After Lamanai we visited more Mayan ruins at Altún Ha. This site is famous for the discovery of a jade head (the original is now kept in the vaults of the central bank) and we pretty much had the place to ourselves.

Just off the coast of Belize lies the second biggest barrier reef in the world (the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef system is 900km long running from Cancun in Mexico to Honduras), and having found somewhere safe to store the van we headed to Caye Caulker for a few days of island life.

This may have occurred a couple of times.

We spent a day out of the reef with Salt Life Ecotours, snorkelling in various locations along the reef accompanied by nurse sharks, eagle rays and other sea life. We did their Bucket List tour and can highly recommend it.

Inland Belize is crisscrossed with cave systems and there are numerous activities offered. We opted for cave tubing at St Herman’s Blue Hole National Park which involved walking several hundred metres into a cave and then floating back whilst sitting in a large rubber tube.

We were lucky to pick a quiet day and with Stephen and Angie (aka pepeletour and fellow Brits who we previously met in Yukon, Canada) there were just the four of us plus our guide in the cave. We stayed in the car park there and the following morning we awoke to a coach load of people waiting to do the same tour!

We hadn’t done much in any of the towns we had passed through but this changed in San Ignacio, a town close to the border with Guatemala. In one day we visited the Green Iguana Preservation project, the Mayan ruins at Cahal Pech and took a chocolate tour at Ajaw Chocolate; all very different activities but we thoroughly enjoyed them all. We also met up again with Alan and Amanda, Brits who now live in Canada, for a beer or two on the campsite.

Before our last stop in the mountains we also visited the Green Hills Butterfly Reserve where in addition to butterflies you can also see hummingbirds. We could have sat there for hours watching the birds on the feeders and the entrance fee was worth it just for this.

Our final stop was up in the mountains close to the border where we spent a few peaceful days enjoying the views and swimming pool whilst ensuring we had the paperwork in order for our next border crossing.

Motorhoming in Belize

Taking a foreign motorhome into Belize was very straightforward. At customs you pay BZD30 as road tax and then you have to buy insurance. You can buy for the period you stay in the country (that’s a maximum of 30 days for Brits but that can be extended at an extra cost) and as the difference in cost was not that much we bought insurance to cover the 30 days we were allowed to stay. The insurance company accepted BZD, USD or MXP and we paid MXP600 using up our remaining pesos.

We had no issues finding potable water but could not buy ultra low sulphur diesel. However Belize is a small country so we filled up in Mexico and only needed a quick top up at one point with regular diesel to get us into Guatemala. Roads in Belize are in a far better condition than those on Mexico but that’s not difficult!

Food is expensive when compared to Mexico but definitely not as expensive as the US and Canada and it is possible to find treats from home.

At time of writing exchange rates were BXD2.66 and MXP26.57 to £1.

Campsites used

Chateau de Pradines, Altun Ha: USD10. Currently a work in progress and will only accept self contained vans but the owner has big plans. We parked on level grass and were able to top up our water tank. New shower and toilet block are under construction.

Old Belize Marina, Belize City:BZD16,88 BZD5.53 per night. The two prices represent camping vs just parking. The camping includes water, electric and access to the marina’s shower and toilet block. Parking is in the marina car park, either by the marina’s offices or by the seafront. We stayed close to the office as they had cameras covering this area and we were leaving the van here whilst we went to Caye Caulker.

Mana Kai Camping & Cabins, San Ignacio: BZD20pppn. A large grassy campground very close to the town centre but still reasonably quiet. Water was available to buy by the garrafon and there was a toilet and shower block.

Parrots Peake: BZD40 pn. Camping is on a small piece of uneven ground outside Bill and Laurie’s house. They are amazing hosts and provide electric and access to their swimming pool – much needed on hot days. Laurie was away when we visited but she often invites travellers to join them for dinner.

A very tranquil spot.

Other park ups

Lamanai Boat Tours car park, Orange Walk. We parked in their car park almost next to the river. Lots of bugs as you’re near water and in the jungle but a great place to stay if taking one of their tours. No facilities.

St Herman’s Hole National Park: BZD5 pppn. We stayed a couple of nights in the car park which is very quiet once the caves are closed. There are toilets and showers but we didn’t use them.

Central Mexico: December 2024

On 15/02/2025 By JuneIn FullTiming, Mexico, Pan American Highway

After a whistle stop visit to the UK to catch up with family and friends before Christmas, we spent a couple more days back at Charly’s RV Park to sort out all the stuff we brought back from home – mostly things we just can’t get in Mexico.

Once back on the road it was on with visiting Pueblo Mágicos with our first stop at Patzcuaro, a town that really brother back memories of our previous South American travels. The main square was impressively decorated for Christmas with huge figures from the Christmas story.

We walked down to the Muelle General port from where we took a lancha to the island of Janitzio in the middle of Lake Patzcuaro. The island is dominated by an almost 40m high statue of José María Morelos Pérez y Pavón, a hero of the Mexican War of Independence. We climbed up to the base of the statue but didn’t take the last few steps up inside the statue – the view would have been no better.

Whilst on the island we got to witness, quite by accident, La Danza de los Viejitos (the Dance of the Old Men), a traditional folk dance said to represent the eternal fight against death.

To the east of Morelia is the Reserva Mariposa Monarca, described in our guidebook as a “great wonder of the natural world”. Every year from November, millions of monarch butterflies arrive from Canada to overwinter in the reserve where they stay until February/March. After mating the males die and the females begin the journey north again. When we visited there were many butterflies around but they were not very active and mostly hanging in large clumps from the trees.

Next stop was Tlalpujahua, once a mining town but now known for its production of glass baubles and its permanent Christmas shops.

We decided to be quite remote for Christmas itself, so after stocking the cupboards we headed to Parque EcoAlberto to spend the holiday parked up riverside in a gorge. Here we spent a few days with Tanja and Boris (@Passion4Patina), who we first met briefly on the Dempster Highway, enjoying a Christmas Eve meal together.

Our stay here was unexpectedly extended due to both of us coming down with food poisoning. Fortunately we had everything we needed nearby to be able to wait this thing out until we felt well enough to move on.

Campsites used

Villa Patzcuaro Hotel and RV Park, Patzcuaro: MXP350 p/n for a fully serviced pitch. There is a large grassy area with showers and toilets (we didn’t use) behind the hotel used for camping. It is sloping so blocks are essential. Location is ideal for walking into the centre of Patzcuaro or to the lake to catch a boat. The hotel does have credit card terminals but wanted to charge a 20% tax for paying with a card – we’re used to 3-5% surcharges but this was just ridiculous!

Hotel Rincon Minero, Tlalpujahua: MXP200 p/n for nothing more than the hotel car park although it did have a Portaloo! Great location though for walking into town.

Gran Cañón Parque EcoAlberto: MXP50 entrance and MXP50 camping per person, per day. Camping is on a large riverside grass area with toilets and water points (OK when put through a filter). There is a walk through the canyon along a walkway built above the river. The staff were really helpful when we were ill. Apart from the fireworks from the nearby town (fairly standard for Mexico), it was a really peaceful place.

Other park ups

Convention Centre Car Park, Morelia: Free, no services. For a city centre park up this was fairly quiet and with regular police patrols, safe. Great for a night when passing through.

El Rosario Butterfly Reserve: Free, no services (although public toilets available by the restaurants and shops). We parked in the lowest car park for two nights and had no problems but that might be different when the butterflies are active. The car park is at 10,000ft with the butterfly reserve another 1,000ft up from there so prepare to struggle breathing, be cold at night and have bottles explode when you open them!

West central Mexico – October and November 2024

On 12/01/2025 By JuneIn FullTiming, Mexico, Pan American Highway

Whilst we enjoyed Baja we were really looking forward to exploring the country beyond the beaches. Travelling on the mainland brings its own issues and we are regularly checking government and travel websites to avoid, as much as possible, driving into any troubled areas.

Mechanical vehicles aren’t the only transportation.

It was for this reason that we drove straight through Mazatlan and on to the toll road which would take us out of the state of Sinaloa and away from the current cartel activity.

Our first stop was the island town of Mexcaltitan, thought to possibly be the home city of the Aztecs. It’s now a brightly painted Pueblo Mágico and tourist attraction.

With the heat on the coast being oppressive we moved inland and into the rolling agave covered hills of the state of Jalisco.

We based ourselves in the town of Tequila for the Los Días de Los Muertos celebrations and stayed at a small family-owned independent tequila distillery on the edge of town. Tequila was Mexico’s first “appellation of origin” with the AO defining where and how the tequila is produced. The blue agave used for tequila grows mainly in the state of Jalisco and in selected areas of four other states. Whilst camping we also took the opportunity for a tour of the plantation and distillery, including a tasting session, with Jose, the current owner.

The youngsters who took this photo had a full colour printed version ready while we were still posing.

Who could blame’s us staying here for 6 nights?

The Day of the Dead is celebrated traditionally on 1st and 2nd November and involves friends and families gathering to pay their respects to those who have died. We came across towns decorated with photos of the departed along with huge displays of flowers and tributes. It really is a time of celebrating rather than the quiet mourning we are used to.

After Tequila it was time to explore some of the geographical features of the area. This included spending a couple of nights in a volcanic crater near some steaming vents and dipping ourselves into warm rivers, heated naturally underground.

We also visited the grass pyramids at Guachimontones, the largest pre-Columbian archaeological site in Jalisco, dating from around 350 BCE. There are 10 concentric circle pyramids here which are thought to have been used for spiritual purposes, two ball courts and underground tombs. It was a fascinating place to visit.

It was then time to fly back to the UK for a brief visit before Christmas but it was safe to say we were excited to return and explore more of the country.

Had to lower the rear air suspension to get in here for drinking water

Campsites used

RV Los Pintos, Tepic: MXP460p/n for fully serviced pitch (no option for anything less). Shaded site hidden behind a small shopping arcade but reasonably quiet. Two showers/toilets on site. There is a bus stop nearby from where you can get into the centre of town.

Restaurant La Selva & Camping, Lake Santa Maria del Oro: MXP200p/n to park in the shaded family run restaurant car park on the lake shore. No services other than toilets and showers (we didn’t use either). Lots of chickens and other birds are around creating some noise but it didn’t bother us. The road to the restaurant is not paved and bumpy in places but worth doing. We had a great meal in the restaurant.

Destiladora Puntual, Tequila: MXP300p/n or MXP400 per person per night if you take the tour of the plantation with tequila tasting. Camping is on a rough piece of land but included in the price is access to showers, toilets, WiFi, a large kitchen and seating area (with electric sockets), one use of the washing machine and good sized swimming pool. The site is within easy walking distance of the town of Tequila and Jose is the perfect host – nothing was too much trouble.

Balneario El Manto, El Rosario; MXP200p/n. Camping area has showers, toilets and palapas with BBQs and sockets. Water is spring fed but needed filtering. We parked in the large grass field and had a quiet few nights. Access to the baths is an extra cost.

Balneario El Rincón, Teuchitlán: MXP200p/n. A large water park close to the grass pyramids of Guachimontones. Camping is in a dirt car park area. Toilets and showers on site and price includes use of the pools but we were out of season so a lot of the park was closed (not that that bothered us!).

El Bosque Primavera, near Guadalajara: MXP100p/n. Huge open camping areas in the forest. Concrete tables and benches with BBQs were spread around and toilets opened at the weekends when the area was busy with locals.

Chapala RV Trailer Park: MXP250p/n. Various prices available depending on services needed – we used their WiFi and washing machine. EHU was an additional MXP50 p/n. Small site up in the hills between Chápala and Guadalajara with amazing views. Large flat gravel pitches but many occupied on a permanent basis. Very quiet.

Charly’s RV Park, near Atotonilco el Alto: MXP300p/n for fully serviced pitch. Small campsite but cabins also available to rent. Site includes a restaurant, swimming pool and at an extra cost, a decent washing machine. We also left our van in storage here when we took a trip back to the UK and they were able to organise a taxi to Guadalajara airport for us. A really hospitable place.

Other park ups

Mexcaltitán ferry car park: small parking area close to the ferry boats. Toilets available for a small cost and we didn’t pay for parking (although some have). OK for one night.

Volcan el Ceboruco: well worth the 17km drive up a track which was paved in places with concrete and cobble stones in others. There is a large grass picnic area at the top where camping is permitted. No services.

Chápala town car park: MXP50 for parking at a weekend, free otherwise. Very close to the lake, restaurants and shops. Like most Mexican towns it was noisy at the weekend. No services.

La Paz to Mazatlan – October 2024

On 04/01/2025 By JuneIn FullTiming, Mexico, Pan American Highway

We thought it might be a good idea to summarise our experience of and process for moving across to the mainland.

The options for moving from Baja to the mainland were either to drive north all the way back up Baja to head south again on the mainland (and through cartel country!) or to take one of the two ferries across the Gulf of California. We opted for the overnight TMC freight ferry from La Paz to Mazatlan which would give us open access to the van for eating and sleeping during the 15/16 hours we’d be onboard. The other ferry is run by Baja Ferries and does give the option of a pre-booked cabin.

The crew guided us well in between the RV behind us and the trailer in front.

You cannot book the freight ferry online but Jorge at Rancho Escondido was kind enough to call a couple of weeks ahead and make a telephone reservation on our behalf. As we paid nothing at this point and had no paper confirmation, we’re not sure how definite it actually was but we planned to arrive early on the day of sailing to avoid any issues. The La Paz-Mazatlan crossing goes three times a week in each direction with no crossings on a Sunday.

We went straight to the port on our selected date and after the customs check (the van was searched and our TIP checked) we had the van weighed and measured before going to the TMC office where the cost of the ticket was calculated based on the van’s dimensions. At this point we also had to provide our ID. Once the ticket was issued we were able to park on the dock until loading began.

Out in the open road on mainland Mexico.

A brief timeline:

12 noon check in

15.00 loading due to start (actually started before that and it’s fun to watch)

16.00 we drove on to the vessel

17.00 scheduled departure

18.30 actual departure

09.30 the following day, ship docked

10.10 disembarked

Costs

MXP13,600 (approx GBP530) for the van and two adults. Ticket price includes dinner and breakfast (we didn’t partake) and we were able to pay by credit card

MXP231 (GBP9) fee for ticket confirming the van’s weight and length

All in all we think, for us, this was the best option. The check in process was smooth if a bit convoluted and although on the upper deck (the lower deck was loaded with trucks, trailers, and unmanned cars) we were still undercover so the van was hot but we were at least in our own bed! Parking was great fun and we, by that I mean Bob, were expertly guided into the tightest of spaces by the crew. The ship did have showers but we left them for the van drivers to use.

There were no further checks in Mazatlan and as soon as we disembarked we headed straight to the toll road to head south out of Sinaloa State and into a safer region.

Baja California south, Mexico – September/October 2024

On 07/12/2024 By JuneIn FullTiming, Mexico, Pan American Highway

We continued to zigzag across the peninsula until we reached La Paz after which we followed the main road in a loop around the most southern part.

There is definitely more to see now and we stopped several times at old missions as well as the tourist areas of Todo Santos and Cabo San Lucas.

Whale watching is big business here but unfortunately we were too early for the new season. We did however get to release a few turtles at Todos Santos with Grupo Tortuguero de Todos Santos, a non-profit organisation involved in turtle conservation.

We enjoyed Todos Santos but Cabo was too touristy for us (wasn’t helped by there being two cruise ships in port!) and the weather was showing no signs of cooling down. It was definitely time to move on so we took the overnight ferry from La Paz to Mazatlan but will cover that in a separate post.

We managed to spot Comet Tsuchinshan-ATLAS. Just at well as it’s not coming back for 84 years.

Motorhoming on Baja

I put a lot about motorhoming in the previous Baja blog and as nothing has changed I won’t repeat it. Southern Baja was a little busier than the north but it’s still fairly easy getting around, even in the bigger towns.

Due to voltage differences we do not use hook up and we are topping our water tank up with water bought from a Purificada store, so wherever we camp, we are dry camping. Where hook up is available it is usually at an additional cost.

We’ve found that a number of campsites have Starlink for wifi for those that need it.

Campsites used

La Bufadora Inn, Bahía Asunción: MXP300 p/n. Parking area just outside the inn. Not overly flat but on top of a rock outcrop overlooking the ocean. Toilet and shower, hook up and water available. A little bit out of the main town but takeaway food deliveries can be arranged and Shari, the owner, is very friendly and helpful.

Sunset at La Bufadora Inn, Bahía Asunción

Paraiso Misional San Ignacio: MXP300 p/n. Great little campsite in an oasis of date palms and just a short walk from the Mision and the main square with a few restaurants. Some pitches with hook up and lots of water taps. Toilets and showers available. Seating areas with plugs for charging plus a few BBQ grills.

Beautifully looked after campsite, Paraiso Misional San Ignacio

Playa Santispac, Bahía Concepción: MXP200 p/n. Beach camping with palapas for shade. A couple of bars and restaurants plus toilets along the beach. RV dump at back of beach at additional cost. Sellers stopped by regularly with water, food and souvenirs.

Huerta el Olivar, San Javier: MXP250 p/n. A small plot in an old olive grove shared with a permanent caravan and small rental cabin. Toilet and shower available. Close to the Mision and the main square and a couple of restaurants.

Campestre La Pila, Ciudad Constitución: MXP280 p/n. A large dusty site just outside the town complete with swimming pools and a children’s playground. As we were the only visitors we were told we could park anywhere so we were near the pool. Hook up, toilets and showers available.

Divination Zebra Camping, near La Paz: due to the owners having COVID at the time we didn’t park in the main campsite but Patrick, the owner said we could park for free in the area they are developing for dry camping just across the road. They have great plans for this little site amongst the trees and cacti.

El Rancho Escondido, near Todos Santos: MXP300 p/n. Our favourite site on Baja! Anna and Jorge, the owners, have put a lot of thought and effort into building up their campsite; flat pitches divided by bushes and small trees, a well equipped kitchen area under the palapa and large bathrooms each with a shower and toilet. Washing machine available for a small fee.

El Rancho Escondido, near Todos Santos, our favourite site on Baja

Casa Julia, near Todos Santos: MXP180 p/n. Six small level pitches literally in a front garden – we just about got in but there were larger rigs on other spaces. Every space had water and hook up. Close to the beach but not much of a view.

Cabo San Lucas Marina: MXP15 per hour. This is a large car park in the heart of Cabo San Lucas with easy access to the bars and restaurants around the edge of the marina. Noisy but secure and ok for one night.

Rancho El Clandestino, San Jose del Cabo: MXP400 p/n. A well looked after campsite in the hills behind the town. Individual pitches but on the small side (fine for us at 6.7m). They were working on the lower level of the site, prepping for the season so we stayed on the upper level. Showers, toilets, water and dump available.

El Andariego RV Park, La Paz: MXP350 p/n. A fairly new site in La Paz – not picturesque but definitely functional and within walking distance of the Malecon with its bars and restaurants. Has everything you need including a well equipped kitchen, and laundry pick up and delivery can be arranged. A great and very secure spot for parking in the city.

Wild camping spots

Playa La Ribera: a free municipal beach park-up with toilets and bins. Water is available in the nearby town and there’s a great bakery just opposite the entrance to the beach. Unless you like really loud music playing from cars all night, it’s probably best to avoid this place at the weekends.

Playa Pichilingue: free parking next to a small beach with very clear water. No facilities other than bins but a great location to stay before catching the ferry from Baja to the mainland.

Yukon, North-west Territories and the Dempster Highway – July 2024

On 12/08/2024 By JuneIn Pan American Highway

Leaving Alaska we entered back into Canada via the most northerly border point between the two countries and took the Top of the World Highway to Dawson City where we spent a couple of nights preparing for the Dempster Highway.

Dawson City is in the heart of the Klondike and the goldrush of the late 19th century. Much of the old town is now a tourist destination and great fun to visit.

Whilst here we took the “SourToe Challenge” at the Sourdough Saloon in the Downtown Hotel. This involves knocking back a shot containing a pickled toe and to succeed the toe has to touch your lips!

There are two main northerly starting points for the Pan-American: Deadhorse near Prudhoe Bay in Alaska or Tuktoyaktuk in Northwest Territories, both of which require miles of driving on mud and gravel roads. The latter is the only place of the two where the road goes right to the Arctic Ocean so that was the route we took.

The start of over 850km, each way, of non tarmac road

It took us three full days of driving through ever changing landscapes to travel from Dawson City to Tuktoyaktuk. We had seen plenty of warnings about the trucks which thunder up and down the highway but we had no issues with them and found them to be more considerate than other road users. We’re also pleased to say we made the whole trip with he windscreen and tyres in tact!

Tuktoyaktuk is a small Inuvialuit town which until 2017 was not accessible by road. It is gradually opening up to tourists but is still very quiet and we had four very peaceful nights parked up by the ocean.

We spent four nights here, next to the Arctic Ocean

The road was as everything we expected, a total of 1,700km of mud, dust, ruts, teeth crunching and bone juddering washboard and frost heave sections, but a stunning drive and a great way to start our Pan-Am adventure.

After we completed the Dempster, we spent a few days amongst the residual ponds from former gold claims to clean up the van whilst watching the beavers.

It’s always good meeting up with other travellers, exchanging stories and talking all things travel and this part of our trip was very social! We’ve done coffee, beers and BBQs with the Travelling Caldwell, Pepeletour, Passion4Patina and Milaontour4x4. With a number of vans doing the same trip as us, it’s likely our paths will cross again further down the road.

Motorhoming

For this section we did use a few paid sites, especially in towns and national/provincial parks. On the whole advance reservations at this time of year are essential but we have managed to find basic pitches at a few days notice.

Gold Rush Campground, Dawson City: CAD46.20 p/n no hook up. Very little space between pitches which are mostly gravel but great location for exploring the former goldrush town. Dumping point and fresh water available on site as well as a small laundry which is open to non-residents.

Tuktoyaktuk Municipal camping: CAD31.50 p/n. A area of land at the end of the town converted by residents to a camping area. No fixed spaces but all the parking is by the sea on mostly gravel but definitely not level! Water and some power available. Random benches and fire pits. RV dump is outside the town but it didn’t look too savoury!

We used the service point outside Happy Valley Territorial Park to empty grey and take on fresh water.

Pelly Crossing Campground: free campground by the river run by the local First Nation tribe. Parking is in the trees and pitches have benches and fire pits.

Fuel prices varied considerably and as expected were higher, the further north we went. We paid between £1.10 and £1.66 a litre but with limited supplies on the Dempster it was a price we were willing to pay.

We’re using iOverlander on a daily basis to find park ups, water, dumps, LPG (propane) and laundromats.

Driving Canadian Highways – June 2024

On 18/07/2024 By JuneIn Canada, Pan American Highway, USA

Canada is crisscrossed by a number of highways which in addition to having road numbers, are also named and we spent the next couple of weeks driving a few of them.

Yes we are not the only Hymer Motorhome around here, we briefly caught up with these guys in Seward

We started on the Cassiar Highway (BC Highway 37), a 450 mile long road runing in a northerly direction from Kitwanga, British Columbia, to the Alaska Highway (BC 1) in Yukon.

A side trip from this road was along BC Highway 37A to Seward where we dipped briefly into Alaska to get to the Salmon Glacier, which is actually back in BC.

We were now really starting to see the beauty of Canada; mountains, lakes and our first bears!

After the Cassiar we joined the Alaska Highway, starting at the Sign Forest in Watson Lake, following it to Whitehorse before turning south again along the South Klondike Highway (BC 2) and back again into Alaska to pick up a ferry in Skagway for Haines. We will eventually drive most of this highway.

We then headed north again on the Haines Highway (BC 3, Route 7 in Alaska) to rejoin the Alaska Highway at Haines Junction.

After several days on the road and a couple of border crossings we parked up by Kluane Lake before moving on to Alaska to explore it properly.

Motorhoming

With diesel averaging around £1.10 a litre on this section and plenty of quiet rest areas which permit overnight parking, being on the road is fairly cheap. Food however, is another matter especially when having to shop in the smaller towns so we try to stock up with basics when we find a Walmart. We cook most days in the van and prefer fresh, non-processed foods so this is one of our biggest daily costs after diesel.

Roads are wide and easy to drive and apart from where there are roadworks, we are seeing relatively little traffic. There are quite a few European vehicles here ranging from camper vans to huge expedition trucks; we’ve seen a few other Hymers too!

We’re using iOverlander on a daily basis to find park ups, water, dumps, LPG (propane) and laundromats.

Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada – June 2024

On 08/07/2024 By JuneIn Canada, Pan American Highway

After five weeks back in the UK and after a van service, new tyres and a new windscreen we were back on the road in Canada.

Although we spent a week or so in the Vancouver area, circumstances meant that we didn’t have time to visit the city and we didn’t really start travelling properly until we got to Vancouver Island. Up until now the roads had been pretty quiet but now the holiday season was beginning and there were an amazing number of RVs on the road!

We took the two hour ferry from Tsawwassen to Nanaimo and headed straight out to the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve on the west coast where we did a couple of the shorter walks near Wickaninnish Beach and Tofino. There are a few long sandy beaches broken up by small rocky coves but the strong tides mean swimming is not advised, but a paddle had to be done.

We then headed back across the island to make our way up the east coast to catch another ferry to take us further up the coast of the mainland. On our way we caught up with fellow UK travellers Ceri and Dwayne (aka @roamingramidodger) over a pizza and a beer. They have some exciting times ahead as they have just bought an old school bus to convert.

Telegraph Cove was our final stop on the island and an interesting place to visit. It’s a former fishing and cannery village which has now become a centre for eco-tourism with the old buildings being restored as restaurants, gift shops and visitor accommodation.

Our second ferry was a 17.5 hour journey from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert through the Inside Passage. It was a smooth sailing and the scenery was stunning but sadly we didn’t see much wildlife on the way.

We quite a few more photos on our Facebook page ClewleysOnTour

Motorhoming

We only used one campsite the island, Lost Shoe Campground, a pretty basic site with just water and pit toilets and which cost CAD42 per night (approximately £24) which was the cheapest we found on the west coast. We also spent one night in Port Hardy ferry terminal (CAD22) ahead of an early start for the ferry.

BC Ferries run frequently to Nanaimo and Victoria from Vancouver. We booked a couple of days ahead and it cost CAD148.60 (£85). We booked the longer ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert about six weeks ahead. The trip cost CAD1,062.75 (£608) which included CAD80 for seat reservations in the lounge which we felt was worth it for the 17.5 hour journey; cabins are also available but at a cost. On this trip they allow access to vehicles for a short period every few hours, mostly for people to attend to their pets which are not allowed on the main decks, but we used the time to pick up food and snacks – there was a restaurant on board but it would have been costly to have eaten and drunk there all day.

The whole process of booking, checking in, embarking and disembarking for both these trips was smooth and without any hiccups. We used the BC Ferries website and app and both were easy to navigate.

We’re using iOverlander on a daily basis to find park ups, water, dumps and laundromats.

LPG, or propane, is easy to get and prices are pretty much as they are at home.

California, January 2024

On 27/02/202427/02/2024 By JuneIn FullTiming, Pan American Highway, USA2 Comments

Having completed Route 66 we hightailed it out of Los Angeles as quickly as possible and headed back into nature – California does have the most diverse landscapes.

We went from the snow covered mountains of the Sierra Nevada to below sea level in Death Valley (one place we keep returning to!).

We visited the huge redwoods in Sequoia National Park and hiked out to Moro Rock where unfortunately the cloud cover gave us pretty much zero visibility.

Not much of a view but still worth the hike up Moro Rock

As well as the largest trees we also tried to visit the 4,000 year old trees in the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest but were sadly defeated by snow (there will be an amusing/nail biting video of us trying to turn the van around on a narrow, snow covered mountain road on YouTube in due course).

Manzanar National Historic Site is the site of a former internment camp which held US citizens of Japanese heritage during WWII following the attack on Pearl Harbour. Some of the buildings have been restored and descendants of the camp residents plus volunteers are working in the grounds to bring the gardens back to life. A fascinating place to visit.

Our second visit to Death Valley this month took us to the northern section and we managed to get in some hiking. We walked around the Ubehebe Crater and into Mosaic and Titus Canyons. This was definitely a good time to visit before temperatures start to become unbearable.

Motorhoming

Driving an RV in the southwestern US outside the big cities is so easy. The roads are wide (even the “narrow” roads are 2 lanes) and the choice of overnight spots is beyond words. We’re using iOverlander on a daily basis to find park ups, water, grocery stores and laundromats.

Many of the campgrounds in the national and state parks have service points outside their entrances and therefore accessible to everyone, so we’ve had no problems finding water.

We have paid for a couple of campsites in the national parks but these were very basic with no facilities (as above the service points were outside the actual campgrounds). Many campgrounds are currently closed but we used Potwisha Campground in Sequoia NP, USD32 a night, and Mesquite Spring Campground in Death Valley, USD14 per night.

Fuel has remained cheap right up until the California border where it immediately increases by a couple of dollars a gallon, if not more especially in the more remote places – the most we paid was $8.50 whereas back in Arizona it had been around $3.90!

LPG, or propane, is easy to get and prices are pretty much as they are at home.

Into the USA – 4 to 9 Nov 2023

On 24/11/202324/11/2023 By JuneIn Pan American Highway, USA2 Comments

Five states in as many days from New York to Illinois via Pennsylvania, Ohio and Indiana!

The border crossing at the Peace Bridge from Fort Erie to Buffalo was easier than we expected and took us just over an hour. At the first checkpoint we were asked if we were carrying any alcohol, tobacco and uncooked or fresh meat, fruit or vegetables, which we weren’t. There are several official websites which occasionally seem to contradict each other on what is permitted food wise, so we erred on the side of caution and emptied the fridge!

We were then pointed towards immigration where we were asked a few questions on why we were entering America and for how long we would be staying. We had previously obtained a B2 Tourist Visa in the UK which allows, subject to the immigration officer’s approval, stays of up to 180 days as opposed to the 90 days allowed on an ESTA.

We were granted leave to stay for the full six months and after paying $6 each immigration fee, we were free to go on our way.

Our first mistake was getting on to the interstate out of Buffalo! It’s a toll road and we, incorrectly, assumed there would be toll booths to pay but it’s all automated based on your number plate and when trying to pay online the only option is for US and Canadian registered cars. After a conversation with a very helpful lady on the helpline, we were assured that we’d be OK with not paying provided we don’t use a New York State toll road again. We had no option to pay despite trying so let’s hope she’s right!

After that little hiccup we ticked off the states on our way to Chicago from where we were going to start Route 66. Much of the drive was rolling agricultural land and we passed through a couple of Amish townships.

We spent a couple of days in Chicago, walking miles and taking a boat tour to see the city from the river. Two days really wasn’t long enough but it gave us a feel for the city and it’s definitely worth a visit.

The start of Route 66. We would drive past this a day or so later. Now complete with one of our stickers.

Motorhoming

We joined Harvest Hosts (US$84.15 for the year) as they offer non-campsite park ups and are found all across the country. Typically stays are free and in exchange you are encouraged to purchase something (lots of these are on farms, vineyards or breweries) or leave a donation. Our first stay was at a Law Enforcement Dog Training Centre where the owner had installed hook up points and provided fresh water.

Law Enforcement Dog Training Centre Park up

Walmart is known for allowing overnight stays in its car parks (check though as not all stores do this. Boondock WM is a good app to check this on). We also stayed at a Bass Pro outlet. These are obviously not the quietest of nights but they come in handy for the odd overnighter.

Not the best view from our window but needs must sometimes.

Chicago has a designated RV parking area within a truck car park just to the south of the city. There are no facilities and it costs $38 per night but the city is walkable from there or you can take a Metra Train from a short distance away – the short ride cost us $2 each. Despite it being a fairly open car park (although there is an extra/eit barrier) it felt safe and we were happy to leave the van to explore the city.

Prince Edward Island – 30 September to 7 October 2023

On 06/11/202306/11/2023 By JuneIn Canada, FullTimingLeave a comment

From Pictou, Nova Scotia we took the 75 minute ferry to Wood Islands, Prince Edward Island on a beautiful sunny day. PEI is Canada’s smallest province and is mostly rural with pretty villages interspersed by extensive agricultural land.

PEI has three main regions and each has its own clearly marked scenic drive; we drove the eastern and central routes which included the capital of Charlottetown. The tourist information centre just after leaving the ferry was a great source of information and maps.

Just one of the amazing overnight park ups we found using IOverlander.

We had some amazing park ups along the coast all of which were very quiet at this time of year. The main tourist season here is very short, just July and August so a lot of places were closed, although the cruise ships still dock in Charlottetown. The capital is a very pretty town and worth a visit. Whilst there we treated ourselves to two local delicacies – lobster and chocolate covered crisps (not at the same time I should add!).

We drove along the Green Gables coast (as in Anne of Green Gables – the book was written here by Lucy Maud Montgomery) but found the area to be overly touristy and think it would probably overrun in the summer.

We were lucky with wildlife too – watching the seals and a bald eagle from one spot. If there had been a water source nearby it would have been much harder to drag ourselves away.

The coast is littered with lighthouses which make for great park ups (although not all allow overnight parking) and the beaches of the north coast were stunning. This was a very relaxing week!

Once the high winds had stopped we were allowed to cross the bridge back to the mainland.

Blog: www.bobandjune.com

YouTube: https://youtube.com/user/bobclewley

PolarSteps:https://www.polarsteps.com/ClewleysOnTour/8608383-the-big-one-canada-to-argentina-and-back-again

Nova Scotia, Canada – 9th to 29th September 2023

On 08/10/202308/10/2023 By JuneIn Canada, Pan American HighwayLeave a comment

After almost two weeks apart and sleeping in five beds in nine days, we couldn’t wait to get back into the van. Don’t get us wrong, we loved seeing everyone and people’s hospitality has been endless but as they say, there’s no place like home!

After a couple of days of shopping (still trying to get our heads around prices, taxes and conversions back to GBP), it was time to hit the road again and see as much of this region as we could before the winter set in. Whilst fuel is significantly cheaper, about £1.25 per litre, food seems for an average shop more expensive, and alcohol is definitely more expensive and sold only through government stores.

We spent almost three weeks in Nova Scotia exploring the province via a figure of eight route starting in Halifax, then north to Cape Breton, south to Yarmouth and back to Halifax following the coast. There are a number of well signed routes around the province and roads are in reasonable condition but are not always tarmacked.

As we left Halifax for the first time we were avidly watching the weather keeping an eye of the severity and route of Hurricane Lee (it’s the middle of the hurricane season) as we headed to a campsite to continue sorting the van. We also wanted to be around people should the storm be particularly bad, but luckily for us we escaped with just a lot of rain.

The Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site

There is so much to see and do here taking in the scenery, the history and wildlife. The indigenous people were the Mi’kmaq Indians but the land has been settled by the French, English, Germans and Scots (Nova Scotia means New Scotland) and many of the town names are familiar to anyone from the UK!

So many opportunities for ‘boondocking’ for the night.

We drove in a clockwise direction around the island of Cape Breton from the relatively flat south to the winding roads of the highlands of the Cabot Trail in the north. Lots of Scottish influence here; some of the road signs are in Scottish Gaelic and the language is still taught in some schools. It’s also a licence for the tourist shops to sell anything and everything tartan themed!

The beautiful red rocks of The Bay of Fundy.

The Bay of Fundy is home to the world’s largest tides and watching an incoming tide is apparently a sight to behold (I say apparently as we haven’t yet got our timing right to actually see it!). The tidal bore can be surfed and a couple of companies offer rib trips out to play in the bore and the local red mud – too cold to do this now. At low tide it’s possible to go out onto the rocky seabed in places with the knowledge that in a few hours the spot will be underwater by up to 16m!

The southern coves are home to many small fishing villages and the coastline is dotted with lighthouses, with the most famous being Peggy’s Cove. Being in the van we were able to stay in the carpark overnight and take photos before the place was overwhelmed with tour coaches.

Nova Scotia was a great place to start our tour; friendly people, good food and plenty to keep us busy. Next stop will be Canada’s smallest province, Prince Edward Island.

Campsites used:

Note re campsites! Due to power differences, we will not be hooking up on this trip, relying on our solar/inverter/battery set up to keep everything charged and working. Our travel style means no more than two or three days in any one place so even if there is little solar power coming in we will recharge the leisure batteries via the engine. Having swapped from a cassette toilet to a separating one over the summer this also means that we are not looking for black water disposal. This page explains the changes and improvements we have made to the van.

Porters Lake Provincial Park: small lakeside camping area in the park. Grass pitches with some gravel, BBQ pits and picnic benches. Some pitches have power and water. Walking trails and a small boat launch. Booking was via online system (www.parks.novascotia.ca).

We paid CAD28.85 p/n without services.

Nimrod’s Campground, Sherbrooke: small lakeside camp with a lot of seasonal trailer pitches. We parked on a small lakeside pitch (we are small by local standards) which was supplied with water and EHU. Pitches are grass and some areas were, not surprisingly, very muddy. Lots of activities available in peak season but our reason for visiting was to sit out a storm!

We paid CAD46 p/n over a weekend.

Other overnight spots:

We find our spots via the iOverlander and Park4night apps with the former having more entries in the Americas. These are usually public car parks where overnight parking is permitted and out of season, there is much more choice. Most are free but not always flat. We always review where we’ve stayed – just check out the app to see if we’ve stayed in a particular place.

Cape Breton – Baxter’s Cove, Pleasant Bay, Donkin and Gabarus Bay.

Mainland Nova Scotia – Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre, Cape Split Provincial Park, Cape Fonchu, Peggy’s Cove (need to be aware of restrictions in the two car parks), Halifax city centre near Pier 21 (daily rate of CAD12) and Salt Springs car pool carpark.

Blog: www.bobandjune.com

YouTube: https://youtube.com/user/bobclewley

PolarSteps:https://www.polarsteps.com/ClewleysOnTour/8608383-the-big-one-canada-to-argentina-and-back-again

Canada – the BIG trip. September 2023

On 02/10/202302/10/2023 By JuneIn Canada, Pan American HighwayLeave a comment

Two and a half years later than intended, we have finally realised our motorhoming dream and shipped the van to Canada!

We were originally planning to leave the UK in Spring 2021 but COVID, ongoing shipping delays and finally family commitments meant that we wouldn’t begin the trip until September 2023.

Tracking the van. May have used this app a lot 😄

We travelled up to Liverpool and left the van on the docks, unlocked and with the keys in the cab, on 30th August with a scheduled shipping date of 3rd September. At this point we have to thank our friend Myles who works on the docks and gave up part of his day off to guide us through the checking in process and then drop us back at Lime St Station to catch the train home. Hopefully we’ll see him and his wife Helen on the road at some point!

Even managed a visit to the Open Air Theatre, Regents Park, London. One of our favourite theatres.

After a few days at home saying goodbyes to family and friends whilst watching the MV Atlantic Star carrying our van, start its journey across the Atlantic, we took a flight from London to Toronto (via Dublin) where we were proper tourists in Toronto, enjoying the warm weather, walking miles and visiting the main attractions including the CN Tower. Lots of eating too!

No sooner had we arrived then it was time to leave and we flew a couple of hours back to Halifax, Nova Scotia to await the van’s arrival. We were lucky to be staying with an old work colleague of Bob’s who emigrated from the UK several years ago with his family. We can’t thank Simon, Laura and Rachel enough for their kind hospitality, for their tips for travelling in Canada and for letting us park the van on their drive whist we unpacked everything we had stowed away for shipping.

Despite leaving Liverpool a day late, the vessel docked on time and just a few hours later we had picked her up; thankfully all our fears relating to damage and theft were unfounded – nothing was missing nor broken.

Back on the road…just a new continent for the van.

After restocking the food cupboards and refilling all the tanks (fuel, water and LPG) it was time to hit the road properly. Just an incoming hurricane to contend with…..

Blog: www.bobandjune.com

YouTube: https://youtube.com/user/bobclewley

PolarSteps:https://www.polarsteps.com/ClewleysOnTour/8608383-the-big-one-canada-to-argentina-and-back-again?s=BA3C6291-73DA-4127-86AD-F32C92D2B6D8

Bob and June

Category: Pan American Highway

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Canada – the BIG trip. September 2023