Whilst we enjoyed Baja we were really looking forward to exploring the country beyond the beaches. Travelling on the mainland brings its own issues and we are regularly checking government and travel websites to avoid, as much as possible, driving into any troubled areas.
It was for this reason that we drove straight through Mazatlan and on to the toll road which would take us out of the state of Sinaloa and away from the current cartel activity.
Our first stop was the island town of Mexcaltitan, thought to possibly be the home city of the Aztecs. It’s now a brightly painted Pueblo Mágico and tourist attraction.
With the heat on the coast being oppressive we moved inland and into the rolling agave covered hills of the state of Jalisco.
We based ourselves in the town of Tequila for the Los Días de Los Muertos celebrations and stayed at a small family-owned independent tequila distillery on the edge of town. Tequila was Mexico’s first “appellation of origin” with the AO defining where and how the tequila is produced. The blue agave used for tequila grows mainly in the state of Jalisco and in selected areas of four other states. Whilst camping we also took the opportunity for a tour of the plantation and distillery, including a tasting session, with Jose, the current owner.
The Day of the Dead is celebrated traditionally on 1st and 2nd November and involves friends and families gathering to pay their respects to those who have died. We came across towns decorated with photos of the departed along with huge displays of flowers and tributes. It really is a time of celebrating rather than the quiet mourning we are used to.
After Tequila it was time to explore some of the geographical features of the area. This included spending a couple of nights in a volcanic crater near some steaming vents and dipping ourselves into warm rivers, heated naturally underground.
We also visited the grass pyramids at Guachimontones, the largest pre-Columbian archaeological site in Jalisco, dating from around 350 BCE. There are 10 concentric circle pyramids here which are thought to have been used for spiritual purposes, two ball courts and underground tombs. It was a fascinating place to visit.
It was then time to fly back to the UK for a brief visit before Christmas but it was safe to say we were excited to return and explore more of the country.
Campsites used
RV Los Pintos, Tepic: MXP460p/n for fully serviced pitch (no option for anything less). Shaded site hidden behind a small shopping arcade but reasonably quiet. Two showers/toilets on site. There is a bus stop nearby from where you can get into the centre of town.
Restaurant La Selva & Camping, Lake Santa Maria del Oro: MXP200p/n to park in the shaded family run restaurant car park on the lake shore. No services other than toilets and showers (we didn’t use either). Lots of chickens and other birds are around creating some noise but it didn’t bother us. The road to the restaurant is not paved and bumpy in places but worth doing. We had a great meal in the restaurant.
Destiladora Puntual, Tequila: MXP300p/n or MXP400 per person per night if you take the tour of the plantation with tequila tasting. Camping is on a rough piece of land but included in the price is access to showers, toilets, WiFi, a large kitchen and seating area (with electric sockets), one use of the washing machine and good sized swimming pool. The site is within easy walking distance of the town of Tequila and Jose is the perfect host – nothing was too much trouble.
Balneario El Manto, El Rosario; MXP200p/n. Camping area has showers, toilets and palapas with BBQs and sockets. Water is spring fed but needed filtering. We parked in the large grass field and had a quiet few nights. Access to the baths is an extra cost.
Balneario El Rincón, Teuchitlán: MXP200p/n. A large water park close to the grass pyramids of Guachimontones. Camping is in a dirt car park area. Toilets and showers on site and price includes use of the pools but we were out of season so a lot of the park was closed (not that that bothered us!).
El Bosque Primavera, near Guadalajara: MXP100p/n. Huge open camping areas in the forest. Concrete tables and benches with BBQs were spread around and toilets opened at the weekends when the area was busy with locals.
Chapala RV Trailer Park: MXP250p/n. Various prices available depending on services needed – we used their WiFi and washing machine. EHU was an additional MXP50 p/n. Small site up in the hills between Chápala and Guadalajara with amazing views. Large flat gravel pitches but many occupied on a permanent basis. Very quiet.
Charly’s RV Park, near Atotonilco el Alto: MXP300p/n for fully serviced pitch. Small campsite but cabins also available to rent. Site includes a restaurant, swimming pool and at an extra cost, a decent washing machine. We also left our van in storage here when we took a trip back to the UK and they were able to organise a taxi to Guadalajara airport for us. A really hospitable place.
Other park ups
Mexcaltitán ferry car park: small parking area close to the ferry boats. Toilets available for a small cost and we didn’t pay for parking (although some have). OK for one night.
Volcan el Ceboruco: well worth the 17km drive up a track which was paved in places with concrete and cobble stones in others. There is a large grass picnic area at the top where camping is permitted. No services.
Chápala town car park: MXP50 for parking at a weekend, free otherwise. Very close to the lake, restaurants and shops. Like most Mexican towns it was noisy at the weekend. No services.
