City Life

SAt 11th and we leave the lake for our first major city – Fes, the former capital of Morocco.  But first we had
to get through the market at Ourtzarh where it seems everyone had come to sell their wares and at one point it
looked like someone was trying to load cows into the back of a transit!  Having negotiated our way through the

The office ..Morocco style
The office ..Morocco style

mayhem of the market, it was back across the rickety bridge and then onto the main road to Fes.  The dramatic mountain scenery has temporarily been replaced by green rolling hills and fields of crops; farming here plays a major part in the economy but there seems to be little machinery and many families go to and from the fields on their donkey (and usually with the man riding and the woman walking a few paces behind).

We get to Fes without incident but then panic a little when the sat nav seems to be taking us right through the centre of the city.  Luckily we stick to a main road running along the outside medina walls and find our way to the campsite fairly easily. After lunch provided by Steve and Muhammed, it’s a quiet afternoon around the van and with
a decent power supply we can use the coffee maker and the air conditioning although not at the same time – it’s not that good!  Campsite facilities are basic but clean and useable.

There’s a great pool area and even a bar
selling alcohol (very unusual) but sadly the pool is empty…..we would all have appreciated it in this heat.

Morocco style travelling
Morocco style travelling

Sun 12th and we’re off for a tour of Fes.  The campsite is in the Ville Nouvelle which was designed and built by the French before Morocco gained independence.  We travel through the more decorative Jewish city which contains the Kings Palace and then to the Medina (the largest in the Arab world) where the shopping begins…..

 

 

 

 

The Potteries
The Potteries

First to the potteries where we see ceramics being made in the traditional way with a lump of clay being thrown on a wheel and crafted into plates, bowls and tagines and then painted by hand.  Mosaics are made here too with the plain coloured tiles being broken and cut by large hand held hammers before creating intricate patterns.  A couple of small purchases here and then it’s back into the labyrinth of the medina and the carpet shop which is based in an old
several storied house.

 

 

The Tanneries
The Tanneries

We did actually intend to buy a rug on this trip and after a talk on the history of how carpets are made and a glass of mint tea to help with the negotiations, we succeeded.

As usual with the guides here they direct you to shops where they receive the best commission and after a “Berber” pharmacy and a leather shop by the tanneries, people were starting to flag a little so it was back to the campsite.

The long and winding road

The following morning we went for a walk up along the track which ran behind the campsite and up the mountain where we had spectacular views of the valley in which Chefchaouen is nestled.  The afternoon was spent trying, unsuccessfully, to avoid the heat as it is apparently unusually hot for this time of year – temperatures are around the mid 30sC  during the day although the evenings are considerably cooler and sleeping is not difficult.  Another group meal, this time at Casa Aladin which is set on four floors overlooking the main town square and again ridiculously cheap at Dh85 (£6.50) each for a three course set menu.

Fri 10th and up early for the journey to tonight’s wild camping beside a lake.  As the crow flies this is a journey of no more than 50miles but with the bulk of Rif Mountains in the way and lack of decent roads this becomes 150miles which takes 5 1/2 hours.  The driving is, shall we say, a little on the iffy side; no thoughts about lanes, overtaking into oncoming traffic on blind bends, the road shrinking to one vehicle wide……

The scenery continues to be breathtaking as the road winds its way up and down and around the mountains.  We drive through Bab-Berret where people, cars and cattle cross the road as they want.

Lunch
Lunch

Lunch was at Ketama and literally at a roadside butchers; you have to go through the carcasses hanging outside to get into the seating area where we had freshly made lamb keftas and cutlets.

The road continued through the Rif and we headed towards Ourtzarh across a bridge; well I say bridge….it was one lane wide, just, and in places the river below can be seen through the holes in the boards.

The campsite that night was on the banks of a lake with just donkeys and sheep for company.  However given the intensity of the driving it was an early night all round just after a beautiful sunset across the lake.

 

The Bridge
The Bridge

 

The Bridge
The Bridge