Another early Easyjet departure but a smooth flight, a short train ride and we were in our hotel in Berlin by lunchtime. Having hoped for real Winter weather we were a little disappointed to find Berlin was experiencing the same mild grey days as London. Still it was dry so no complaints really especially as it stayed that way for the three days we there.
After being allowed to check in early it was off to get our bearings. We were staying at the Ibis Hotel Potsdamer Platz which was picked in line with our standard requirements – free wifi, location and price. The room was basic but clean (all you need when you don’t intend spending any time there!) and the hotel was conveniently located between the Brandenburg Gate and Checkpoint Charlie.
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of EuropeFirst stop was the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, an area of various sized grey blocks built to commemorate the Jews and others murdered in the Nazi concentration camps. One thing we liked about Berlin was that it has not tried to hide its history but has used it as to bring about change – far more thought-provoking than simply sweeping it under the carpet. From there it was on to the Brandenburg Gate where we grabbed a quick spot of lunch, the Reichstag (book online a few weeks ahead to be able to go up inside the Sir Norman Foster Cupola) and then we just wandered around until we reached the Gendarmenmarkt and our first taste of a real German Christmas market. As it was custom we had to partake of the Gluhwein and the markets here all sell their drinks in commemorative glasses for which you pay a €3 deposit and then it’s your choice if you take them back or keep as a souvenir.
GendarmenmarktCheckpoint Charlie had always been on Bob’s to do list so that was our final destination for the day (the 3.30am start and Gluhwein were taking their toll!) but it was too dark by the time we arrived to see too much so it was back to the hotel for an early dinner and bed. We ate in the hotel that night which had a reasonably priced restaurant serving a good selection of food.
CheckpointCharlieOut early the following morning in the glorious sunshine to stop back at Checkpoint Charlie where one of the original guard huts still remains along with some signage. For many the fall of the Berlin Wall is a moment many of us remember as well as the proceeding rhetoric of the Cold War which makes the history so accessible.The Wall is marked throughout the City by a line of cobbles and signs, it is hard to comprehend the difference in the lives of those living either side.
Old route of the WallThe early start was to get us to the Berliner Fernsehturm, a 368m high TV tower and the tallest building in Berlin. We’d picked up last minute tickets online the night before but had to be there at 10am before general opening which in hindsight was the best move as by the time we left around 10.45, the queues to get in were getting rather long. We only went to the viewing platform and since found out that the restaurant on the floor above rotated but given the bright morning we had great views over the City.
The TV TowerThe next stop was the East Side Gallery, one of the original sections of The Wall still standing but now covered both sides in grafitti.
More Christmas markets and Gluhwein around Alexanderplatz before a quick trip back to the hotel for a nap (another early start!) and then returning to the market by the Berliner Rathaus, a beautiful red brick building for the evening, for a spin on the Ferris Wheel and severe calorie overload from the food available on the stalls.
Ferris WheelOur final day was spent around Potsdamer Platz, a total contrast to the grand historical buildings that make up much of this part of the City. Most of the shops there can be found in any European shopping centre but the trip up to the Potsdamer Point viewing platform via the fastest lift in Europe is well worth it for views over the city. Lots of bars and restaurants although we didn’t visit any.
PotsdamerFor some peace and quiet we strolled through the Tiergarten, a large wooded area to the west of the City, to the Siegessaule, the rather blingy monument originally erected to signify Prussian military victories. €3 and 285 steps will get you to the viewing platform at the top and again worth if for an entirely different view back over the city. Again, despite thoughts at one point that the monument should be dismantled, it hasn’t been and the area is now used for public celebrations including a New Year’s Eve party.
SiegessauleSo another wonderful weekend away although with only three days we barely scratched the surface of Berlin but we did the highlights and visited the markets. Safe to say we will be back!
With basic flights from Gatwick to Malpensa at around £50 return this was always going to be a good trip away with friends….
Having finally sorted out the hire car (and you think you’ve done everything from here….but that’s another story), we drove along the beautiful Como lake side roads directly to the B&B Miralago Bellagio . I guess this was a family home in the day and still had a great look about it.
Miralago
With free wifi and a really substantial breakfast it was a winner and another lucky pick from TripAdvisor! Located on the other side of the headland in a peaceful setting, some rooms are lake facing but all clean and comfortable. Staff were friendly and accommodating and were on hand for wine and beer of an evening at very reasonable costs. Have to say it again though….the breakfast was amazing – fresh fruit, homemade pastries and cakes as well as the continental staples of meats and bread as well as cooked eggs. Our room was over the kitchen and the smells wafting in of a morning were worth waking up for! The main town of Bellagio is a 10 minute walk up along winding paths in amongst the houses over a small hill. Walking down into the town revealed a stunning view out over the lake.
BellagioLake Como
We had dinner that night at Ristorante La Terrazza Belvedere and with it’s view over the lake, it provided a good end to the day. There are a number of lakeside restaurants as you would expect and offer good spots for people watching as the sun goes down behind the mountains. Aperol and Prosecco are not necessary but it would have been rude not to!
The Stelvio Pass
The next day had been planned for a while… A ride out to the The Stelvio Pass on the Swiss border. It is one of the roads that Top Gear has used in the past for some of its programs. Following a post on Facebook friends suggested that we took in the Gavia Pass too. Great idea..however when we reached the pass we found it closed.
Road Block
After a quick lunch of pasta in the town of Ponte di Legno at (a Pizzeria which wasn’t actually selling pizza – I would have thought that was a first in Italy) we continued on to The Stelvio Pass. It is a stunning drive reaching snow as we approached the summit. At the top we had been told of a stall that sold the best Bratwurst… however as we were running late he was shutting up as we parked!..
We did manage to find a place for a coffee though..albeit there was a man sat reading porn at a nearby table….Very odd but the coffee was good.
View at the topThe Stelvio Pass
Messing about on the water
Saturday was going to be a more relaxing day… For €15 you can buy a boat ticket that allows you unlimited travel on the mid section of Lake Como. So with tickets in hand we set off from Bellagio to Menaggio, having stopped off in Varenna the night before for a Pizza.
Mid Lake in Yellow
Its is a really relaxing way to get about and see other small towns in the area with the inevitable coffee or two. From there we took the ferry to Cadenabbia and walked, quite a few kms, to Lenno before returning to Bellagio. If you feel so inclined there are a few cycle paths off the main road but we stuck to walking this time.
That night was a belated birthday treat for Sarah and Colin… We went to Hotel La Pergola which was only a few minutes walking distance of our hotel. The food was superb and not overpriced given the location (the restaurant is right on the side of the lake) but we thought the place lacked atmosphere – it was a Saturday night and we were the last to leave at around 9.15pm. However that may have been the time of year as nowhere we visited seemed busy and some places were closed for winter.
Romeo, Romeo where are ya
Coffee… of course
Sunday was off to Verona. Only a 2 1/2 hour trip and easy parking which is always a bonus. Of course the first stop was always going to be a coffee but from there we went to the Arena, which to be honest was little disappointing. It would have been a stunning place but they were still dismantling the stage plus all the lighting and sound rigs from the summer opera season. We were told this though when we bought a discounted entry ticket but we didn’t realise the extent to which the Arena would be covered. On the other hand we can’t imagine a more breathtaking venue in which to watch opera – not our usual theatre choice but here we would certainly give it a go!
Arena di VeronaArena di Verona
We had to see the Casa di Giulietta which is said to be the location of the balcony Shakespeare based the Romeo, Romeo where are ya story. It is a real tourist trap – despite every where else we went being fairly quiet, we found all the tourists here! But still we were in Verona so it had to be done. A beautiful building from the outside (we didn’t pay to go in) and yes we did leave our names on the wall on the entrance to the courtyard. With both Bob and Colin being so tall it may be a while before ours are covered!
Casa di GiuliettaCasa di Giulietta
That night we ate at a place we had noticed the day before called Enoteca CavaTuracciolo.
Enoteca CavaTuracciolo
We chose this place based purely on it’s looks being somewhere very different from our usual choice of restaurant and once inside we were not disappointed. Not the largest menu on the food front and don’t expect too much choice of beer (in fact the night we went they had sold out the night before with a large party) but don’t let that put you off.
Enoteca CavaTuracciolo
Having little knowledge of Italian wine we opted for a suggested food/wine menu of which there were four depending on your wine preferences – pick your combination of red and white for the three glasses and for each there is an accompanying 3 course menu. The staff were very helpful and didn’t make us feel stupid for not being wine experts. The simple but delicious set menus were €24 each – we opted for cold meat starters, pasta main and all options had a cheese platter to finish. The wines varied in price – our choice of 3 reds was €18.
Enoteca CavaTuracciolo
All in all a great place to spend our final night in Bellagio and would highly recommend even to non-wine buffs!
Como and home
Our last day, this time around, saw a trip to Como town.
It is really worth taking a trip on the funicular. A great place for views over Como and the surrounding area. €5.50 return journey for adults and cars every 15 minutes or so, so not too much hanging around waiting. There are restaurants and bars at the top but we didn’t visit any of them.
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Como
Como
All in all a great location for a weekend away and the timing was perfect – it would probably be too busy for us in the summer. Just over an hour from Milan and we had our perfect combination of water and mountains; the food and wine were pretty good too!
