La Paz to Mazatlan – October 2024

We thought it might be a good idea to summarise our experience of and process for moving across to the mainland.

We had to drive up in the left.

The options for moving from Baja to the mainland were either to drive north all the way back up Baja to head south again on the mainland (and through cartel country!) or to take one of the two ferries across the Gulf of California.  We opted for the overnight TMC freight ferry from La Paz to Mazatlan which would give us open access to the van for eating and sleeping during the 15/16 hours we’d be onboard.  The other ferry is run by Baja Ferries and does give the option of a pre-booked cabin.

The crew guided us well in between the RV behind us and the trailer in front.

You cannot book the freight ferry online but Jorge at Rancho Escondido was kind enough to call a couple of weeks ahead and make a telephone reservation on our behalf.  As we paid nothing at this point and had no paper confirmation, we’re not sure how definite it actually was but we planned to arrive early on the day of sailing to avoid any issues.  The La Paz-Mazatlan crossing goes three times a week in each direction with no crossings on a Sunday.

Docking at Mazatlan

We went straight to the port on our selected date and after the customs check (the van was searched and our TIP checked) we had the van weighed and measured before going to the TMC office where the cost of the ticket was calculated based on the van’s dimensions. At this point we also had to provide our ID. Once the ticket was issued we were able to park on the dock until loading began.

Out in the open road on mainland Mexico.

A brief timeline:

12 noon check in

15.00 loading due to start (actually started before that and it’s fun to watch)

16.00 we drove on to the vessel

17.00 scheduled departure

18.30 actual departure

09.30 the following day, ship docked

10.10 disembarked

Costs

MXP13,600 (approx GBP530) for the van and two adults.  Ticket price includes dinner and breakfast (we didn’t partake) and we were able to pay by credit card

MXP231 (GBP9) fee for ticket confirming the van’s weight and length

All in all we think, for us, this was the best option.  The check in process was smooth if a bit convoluted and although on the upper deck (the lower deck was loaded with trucks, trailers, and unmanned cars) we were still undercover so the van was hot but we were at least in our own bed!  Parking was great fun and we, by that I mean Bob, were expertly guided into the tightest of spaces by the crew.  The ship did have showers but we left them for the van drivers to use.  

There were no further checks in Mazatlan and as soon as we disembarked we headed straight to the toll road to head south out of Sinaloa State and into a safer region.

Baja California south, Mexico – September/October 2024

We continued to zigzag across the peninsula until we reached La Paz after which we followed the main road in a loop around the most southern part. 

Crossing the Tropic of Cancer

There is definitely more to see now and we stopped several times at old missions as well as the tourist areas of Todo Santos and Cabo San Lucas.

Hotel California, Todos Santos

Whale watching is big business here but unfortunately we were too early for the new season.  We did however get to release a few turtles at Todos Santos with Grupo Tortuguero de Todos Santos, a non-profit organisation involved in turtle conservation. 

Run little turtle…. Run

We enjoyed Todos Santos but Cabo was too touristy for us (wasn’t helped by there being two cruise ships in port!) and the weather was showing no signs of cooling down.  It was definitely time to move on so we took the overnight ferry from La Paz to Mazatlan but will cover that in a separate post.  

Boat trip at Cabo
We managed to spot Comet Tsuchinshan-ATLAS. Just at well as it’s not coming back for 84 years.

Motorhoming on Baja

I put a lot about motorhoming in the previous Baja blog and as nothing has changed I won’t repeat it.  Southern Baja was a little busier than the north but it’s still fairly easy getting around, even in the bigger towns.

Todos Santos
Todos Santos

Due to voltage differences we do not use hook up and we are topping our water tank up with water bought from a Purificada store, so wherever we camp, we are dry camping.  Where hook up is available it is usually at an additional cost.

We’ve found that a number of campsites have Starlink for wifi for those that need it.

Campsites used

La Bufadora Inn, Bahía Asunción: MXP300 p/n.  Parking area just outside the inn.  Not overly flat but on top of a rock outcrop overlooking the ocean.  Toilet and shower, hook up and water available.  A little bit out of the main town but takeaway food deliveries can be arranged and Shari, the owner, is very friendly and helpful.

Sunset at La Bufadora Inn, Bahía Asunción

Paraiso Misional San Ignacio: MXP300 p/n.  Great little campsite in an oasis of date palms and just a short walk from the Mision and the main square with a few restaurants.  Some pitches with hook up and lots of water taps.  Toilets and showers available.  Seating areas with plugs for charging plus a few BBQ grills.  

Beautifully looked after campsite, Paraiso Misional San Ignacio

Playa Santispac, Bahía Concepción: MXP200 p/n.  Beach camping with palapas for shade.  A couple of bars and restaurants plus toilets along the beach.  RV dump at back of beach at additional cost.  Sellers stopped by regularly with water, food and souvenirs.

Playa Santispac, Bahía Concepción

Huerta el Olivar, San Javier: MXP250 p/n.  A small plot in an old olive grove shared with a permanent caravan and small rental cabin.  Toilet and shower available.  Close to the Mision and the main square and a couple of restaurants.

Huerta el Olivar, San Javier

Campestre La Pila, Ciudad Constitución: MXP280 p/n.  A large dusty site just outside the town complete with swimming pools and a children’s playground.  As we were the only visitors we were told we could park anywhere so we were near the pool.  Hook up, toilets and showers available.  

Campestre La Pila, Ciudad Constitución

Divination Zebra Camping, near La Paz:  due to the owners having COVID at the time we didn’t park in the main campsite but Patrick, the owner said we could park for free in the area they are developing for dry camping just across the road.  They have great plans for this little site amongst the trees and cacti. 

Divination Zebra Camping, near La Paz

El Rancho Escondido, near Todos Santos: MXP300 p/n.  Our favourite site on Baja!  Anna and Jorge, the owners, have put a lot of thought and effort into building up their campsite; flat pitches divided by bushes and small trees, a well equipped kitchen area under the palapa and large bathrooms each with a shower and toilet.  Washing machine available for a small fee.  

El Rancho Escondido, near Todos Santos, our favourite site on Baja

Casa Julia, near Todos Santos: MXP180 p/n.  Six small level pitches literally in a front garden – we just about got in but there were larger rigs on other spaces.  Every space had water and hook up.  Close to the beach but not much of a view.

Casa Julia, near Todos Santos

Cabo San Lucas Marina: MXP15 per hour.  This is a large car park in the heart of Cabo San Lucas with easy access to the bars and restaurants around the edge of the marina.  Noisy but secure and ok for one night.

Cabo San Lucas Marina

Rancho El Clandestino, San Jose del Cabo: MXP400 p/n.  A well looked after campsite in the hills behind the town. Individual pitches but on the small side (fine for us at 6.7m).  They were working on the lower level of the site, prepping for the season so we stayed on the upper level.  Showers, toilets, water and dump available.

Rancho El Clandestino, San Jose del Cabo

El Andariego RV Park, La Paz: MXP350 p/n.  A fairly new site in La Paz – not picturesque but definitely functional and within walking distance of the Malecon with its bars and restaurants.  Has everything you need including a well equipped kitchen, and laundry pick up and delivery can be arranged.  A great and very secure spot for parking in the city.

El Andariego RV Park, La Paz

Wild camping spots 

Playa La Ribera:  a free municipal beach park-up with toilets and bins.  Water is available in the nearby town and there’s a great bakery just opposite the entrance to the beach. Unless you like really loud music playing from cars all night, it’s probably best to avoid this place at the weekends.

Playa La Ribera

Playa Pichilingue: free parking next to a small beach with very clear water.  No facilities other than bins but a great location to stay before catching the ferry from Baja to the mainland.

Playa Pichilingue