Croatia, Krka – Split, 8 to 14 Nov

We left the coast and went back inland to visit Krka National Park, staying at Camp Marina just outside the town of Skradin. As with all the campsites we’ve used, it was very quiet and the owners were friendly and helpful, and we were able to take advantage of a winter rate during our stay.

Camp Marina

It is possible to walk into Krka from the campsite but we opted to drive back down to Skradin and take the boat which is included in the park entry fee. There are several entrances to the park and the ticket is valid for all of them but because there are no boats running between various points in the park we split our visit over two days but we didn’t mind as the cost of entry was only kn30 (a little over £3) each, although that goes up to kn200, around £22, in high season.

For day one we visited the main falls at Skradinski buk which following a period of heavy rain were running really fast and high. Like Plitvice there is a boardwalk which takes you around the falls, but where Plitvice was very pretty and you were often to the side of the water, in Krka, the sound and force of the water, in places underfoot, was breathtaking.

The following day we drove around the rest of the park seeing Krka and Visovac monasteries, the Roski, Brjlan and Manojlovac waterfalls, plus the Roman ruins at Burnum. It’s a stunning area to visit with the gorges and lakes accessible by steep windy roads or paths.

Visovac monasterie

The plateau surrounding the park is full of vineyards and olive trees, and a full size T-72 tank which is a memorial to the Pakovo Selo Battle of 1995 as part of Operation Storm.

From Krka we returned to the coast and the city of Split. Camping Split was another large village style one and even though they had kept in the vans in one section of site, as there were no more than a couple of dozen vans in total, it wasn’t at all overcrowded. The campsite was a short bus ride from the Old City (reception has local timetables) and had its own beach. We did use the restaurant this time and had a perfectly good and reasonably priced meal.

Camping Split

The buses in Split are zoned and the cost from the campsite to the walls of the Old City was kn13 each, £1.45, each way. We spent a couple of hours wandering through the alleyways and paid to visit the buildings of Diocletian’s Palace, built by the Roman Emporer Diocletian in around 295AD. The entry fee varies depending on the number of places you want to visit and ranges from kn50-80, £5.60 – £9.

We actually spent more time exploring the area around Split than in the city itself. On our way we stopped briefly at Trogir, a town founded by the Greeks in the third century BC, about 20km to the west of Split. We parked in a large car park overlooking the old town but at kn50 (£5.50) an hour we didn’t stay too long – just a quick wander through the alleyways and into the market for fresh bread and our first taste of burek, filo pastry stuffed with cheese/meat/spinach.

Trogir

Klis Fortress is just outside Split and is stated as being one of the most impressive cliff hugging castles in Croatia. It was built by the Romans overlooking a huge expanse of land down to the sea – it’s a real uphill climb to visit! It has changed hands many times through history and is now known for featuring in Game of Thrones as the city of Meereen. Admission fee is kn60 each (just under £7). As we were out of season we were able to park for free in one of the very small car parks at the base of the fortress but have to assume other places are made available for parking in the summer as not everyone will want to take the bus there!

Klis Fortress

Having missed the car park on our way to Split, as we left we visited Salona, a ruined Roman city. Salona is thought to have been the fourth largest city in the Roman Empire at its peak and although the majority of it remains unexcavated, we still managed to walk 5km around the bits that are! At kn40 each (£4.50) it was a couple of hours well spent.

Handy for the Romans to have a cement works so close by

Sites used:

Camp Marina, near Lozovac, Krka: kn130 p/n (£14.50). Hard standing pitches with EHU, showers, toilets and disposal facilities separately available. Restaurant and bar open during season.

Camping Split, Stobrec, near Split: kn117 p/n (£13) winter rate. Hard standing pitches with EHU and water. Large site with full facilities, laundry and restaurant/bar.

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